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David Koma Sketches

Dazed talks to the NEW GEN sponsorship winner about LFW and flick through his sketch book to see his inspiration behind the AW '10 collection

Having not long graduated from the prestigious CSM with an innovative MA collection, and two successful show seasons at LFW, David Koma has built himself an exciting reputation as one of London’s hottest new talents. This reputation has just earned him a place amongst next seasons NEW GEN, with a fashion show alongside Holly Fulton. Dazed Digital spoke to him...

Dazed Digital: What has life been like for you since graduating and showing your collections at LFW?
David Koma: I mean life is a bit more difficult but really interesting. So far I don’t know what is going on - just work and work all the time. It’s been amazing.

DD: What have been some of the highlights?
David Koma: Obviously, getting NEW GEN Sponsored by Topshop. I really wanted this and finally got it  - so I am really happy.

DD: Tell us about your A/W10 Collection?
David Koma: Basically it started as usual, I started to draw on the female body. I got my favourite models around and started to play with them. Female bodies always inspire me. This season I really wanted to do something very geometric and sharp but keep the natural body curve, keeping the proportions perfect so it remains feminine. It was the whole idea of mixing hard and soft. Starting with the fabrics - we used cashmere wool next to nappa leather. Also, I developed special zip technique to create 3D elements on the dresses. One of the inspirations was Italian futurism and these two fantastic artists in particular – Fortunato Depero and Umberto Boccioni, with their techniques of diagonal and rapid strokes within a triangular frame emphasise the idea that the perceived world is in a constant movement.

DD: How does the design process begin for you?
David Koma: It's always really different. When I do research for one season I see many inspirations for the next season so go back sometimes. It can be fabric, a picture. I go through all the things I really like in general and look at new ideas. So I do research and then I come with the first lineup, then we start toiling usually from the  original fabric.

DD: Why do you use the actual fabric in your collection to toile?
David Koma: For me it is really important to see the fit of the dresses and finishing. The more real it gets to the finished idea the more inspired I am to develop it further. 

DD: Why do you choose the materials you do to work with?
David Koma: Usually I work with  a lot of  basic materials, such as wool, silk, leather – quite classic, chic. In terms of embellishment and techniques I am always trying to move it on, I like creating something new and exciting.

DD: Where do you make your collection?
David Koma: Here, in London, at my studio.

DD: How many people do you have working for you?
David Koma: We have different amount of people working on collection – its depends on a season. At the moment, we have few interns, two technicians and my favourite pattern cutter.

DD: How would you describe your style?
David Koma: Sculptural shapes, heavy embellishment and a perfect fit.

DD: With the announcement of you joining the NEW GEN with  sponsored catwalk show, what does the future hold for you?
David Koma: I hope, I will deliver a beautiful collection and everyone will be happy.