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Dunhill Menswear S/S11

Kim Jones brings a new edge to tailoring heritage

Kim Jones and his Dunhill house have worked in symbiosis for four seasons. One wonders who’s learning the most from whom? Jones didn’t have Dunhill’s extensive tailoring heritage on his CV when he turned up for work, but at the same time the brand lacked the menswear designer’s eye for quirky details and casual aesthetic. The clash of titans brought about a new combination in British menswear; directional but traditional tailoring.

For next summer, Kim Jones presented smart suits in light grey tones. Waistcoats seemed to be optional, but all suit jackets came with the main pockets on the outside, and versions of elbow patches in the same fabric played with the traditional British suede detail. Coats were made to look even slimmer with belts, knitwear came in light green and blue colours. Waist long casual suede jackets dominated the catwalk for a while, but towards the end, Jones smartened things up a tad and introduced a section of bow ties, many of which were teamed up with gorgeous midnight blue suits.

Dazed Digital: What inspired you?
Kim Jones: I was looking at the Bloomsbury Set in relation to Alfred Dunhill and the forward thinking era that was the 1920’s. It was a super chic time and I wanted to apply that to modern menswear.

DD: There was what looked like versions of classic elbow patches on the jackets…
Kim Jones: It was a seam detail and a way of making casual wear into tailoring.

DD: Fave piece?
Kim Jones: The suede reversible jacket, perfect for a luxurious take on casual jackets.