Showing the same collection twice, once in black, the other in white, Ann Demeulemeester made sure that everyone got her sartorial message loud and clear. The two versions served different purposes; in the all white one, the original fencing inspiration was obvious with short, cropped jackets and tight bottoms underneath with intricate and sporty strap details. Other outfits, like an amazing white coat, were styled with Cumber bands. Ann Demeulemeester’s fabric of choice was thin white leather, but the same fabric was more visible in the black and shinier show. Both colour shows contained the classic Ann tailoring, using elegant structured fabrics and often buttoned up all the way.

Dazed Digital: What was the starting point?
Ann Demeulemeester: It started with a fake idea of fencing, and that lead me into a form of modern elegance. Without compromise it lead me further and further, stronger and stronger and sharper and sharper – that was the new mood that I was in

DD: What sort of colour were you working with?
Ann Demeulemeester: Well, it was without compromise, as I said, which means that it’s a completely white show. But I will give you two shows, first in white and then exactly the same but in black. It’s an exercise in style!

DD: Tell me a bit about the fabrics you are using…
Ann Demeulemeester: I worked a lot with thin white leather, almost as thin as silk. Also we used a very strong cotton – there was a strong direction in the fabric.