Marie Lueder was right: men are so back. While Europe burned in the most intense heatwave since records began, the boys returned for Paris Fashion Week men’s, while celebrities braved the scorching sun in their most weather-inappropriate garb. On the runway, things took a turn for the bizarre, with controversial streamer Clavicular opening 424’s show, and practically every other collection banning bottoms on the catwalks in favour of boxers and briefs. And in Milan before that, Ralph Lauren covered boys in bunches of beautiful flowers, while Prada very strong words for the rest of the fashion industry. Whew!

For everything else you might’ve missed at the men’s shows, read through our round-up below.

SAUL NASH

Staging his show inside a Milanese gymnasium, Saul Nash had 1950s pinup illustrations on the brain for SS27. As ever, technical sportswear was at the heart of the collection, emphasised by heavy prints. Piping ran across jackets, tailored trousers were paired with performance tops, asymmetrical buttons cut across shirts, and hooded jackets doubled as shirting styled with jeans. With each look that made its way down the runway, the London-based designer’s collection oscillated between practicality and refined lines.

But the devil was in the details. Darts were built into trousers to encourage fluidity and movement, while second-skin tops added to the collection’s athleisure-coded silhouettes. Closing the show was a particularly striking sheer mesh top and shorts combo, finished with panelled detailing. A continuation of Nash’s collaboration with Portuguese footwear manufacturers APICCAPS and Toworkfor resulted in lace-up derbies and sturdy boat shoes. 

THOM BROWNE

Juggling both Marni and her namesake brand isn’t an easy feat, but Meryll Rogge makes it look effortless. Eschewing a show or traditional presentation format, the Belgian designer opted to showcase her latest collection in the Belgian ambassador’s residence in Paris, through an immersive, curated installation created in collaboration with Brussels’ Saint-Martin Bookshop.

As guests walked through the space, they were met with archive show notes from previous collections, alongside postcards, belts and scarves, displayed as though they were up for auction. The collection itself was blooming with floral-patterned shirting – an oversized chino jacket was paired with a matching skirt, playful shift dresses were styled with leather belts, and pointelle vests were tucked into rolled-up shorts.

ACNE STUDIOS

Acne Studios’ latest menswear line disrupts the office dress code. As creative director Jonny Johansson said in the show notes, “Lately, I have been fascinated by individual expression at the office, which can function as a kind of everyday social experiment. There’s typically a push and pull tension when it comes to what people wear, but not necessarily in the ways you might expect.”  Building on that idea, Johansson dialled things right up. Studded denim riffed on 50s rock’n’roll influences, while a puffed-out emerald waistcoat, an oversized Camero bag dipped and fringed bags rounded out the offering. Honourable mentions go to straight-cut leather trousers in a delicious oxblood, and a pair of sandals swathed in eyelets.

EGONLAB

Egonlab’s Florentin Glémarec and Kevin Nompeix envisioned clothes as a form of armour this season – think of it as an amped-up take on their tailoring. Playful touches came through striped, upturned cuffs on shirting; thigh-grazing shorts were paired with flip-flops, and layered denim paved the way for more exaggerated proportions. If that wasn’t enough, there was also room for shirtless models styled with necklaces resembling antique photo frames, alongside tiny shorts, oversized hats and boots. Softening the collection, delicate lace boxers were paired with bomber jackets, alongside a lightweight lace-scalloped dress and a vest with a bow, which closed out the show and tied everything together.

AMI PARIS

Ami’s love letter to Paris couldn’t have come at a better time. Following a weekend of music, river-diving and unabashed fun during Fête de la Musique (coupled with an ongoing heatwave), the city was the very definition of joie de vivre. “This collection was created with optimism, energy, and a genuine sense of happiness. It captures the spirit of Paris, the warmth of memories, and the people who inspire me every day,” said creative director Alexandre Mattiussi. On the runway, a slouchy blazer appeared first, followed by an ochre shirt and loose shorts that could easily find a place in Adam Sandler’s rotation. There was plenty more where that came from: spliced skirts provided an off-kilter complement to lace-up trainers, while a built-in shirt-and-tie concoction was offset by a delicate charm necklace, a trench coat, basketball shorts and trainers.

Then out popped Anwar Hadid in joggers, loafers and an ‘I Love Paris’ t-shirt. Elsewhere, the collection oscillated between sporty athleisure, with tracksuits in traffic-light red and collegiate styling throughout the show. Ever wondered what a pair of embellished basketball shorts might look like? Well, the wondering ends here: a sequinned pair cut through the preppiness of loafers and button-up shirts.

GIVENCHY

Sarah Burton’s first swing at menswear for Givenchy left us more than satisfied. Staged as a presentation rather than a runway show, it was a cohesive line-up rooted in everything Burton has done so well, time and time again. Since taking the creative director reins at the house in 2024, she’s become fixated on tailored separates and subverting suiting (who could forget the backwards suit dress worn by both Taylor Russell and Cate Blanchett?). The men’s collection felt like a natural extension of that vision, creating a visual dialogue between menswear and womenswear. Nipped-in waists were emphasised through double-breasted tailoring with rugby shirts, while playful details appeared on blazer lapels, repositioned closer to the waist. Elsewhere, floral-adorned bombers, Pepto-Bismol pink outerwear and sporty leather sets emphasised Burton’s versatility.

IM MEN

Taking the name of its SS27 collection quite literally, IM Men’s Bamboo was chock-full of designs made from, well, bamboo thread. Inspired by an exhibition at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, the collection was saturated with monochromatic, earthy tones – but that was just where things started. Silk pleated bags were paired with woven jackets, eyewear was flanked by abstract wooden structures, tops made of leaves sat alongside sharply tailored trousers, and slouchy printed jumpers were offset with clashing bottoms. Midway through, things shifted, with pops of pastel taking centre stage. A pleated green set was a highlight, followed by flowing dyed pink garments and circular wooden necklaces. Equal parts refined and high-octane, it was a masterclass in how to push experimentation up a notch.

YOHJI YAMAMOTO

The first three ashen looks that came down the Yohji Yamamoto catwalk were simple and understated, with grommets decorating casual jackets. Models strolled at a leisurely pace before the next set of looks emerged: more black, this time with buttons beneath gossamer-fine tops that, from afar, could have seemed like sequins twinkling under the light. Next, black looks became the canvas for paint-strewn, marble prints tops, overcoats and shorts. An injection of red marked yet another pivot, while a mixture of patterned and ecru grommet jackets followed. Rounding this off was a regal velvet suit splashed with grey prints, knits that looked slightly unravelled, and a masked, beret-wearing woman who swung a metal chain with a crystal affixed to its end. A twisted take on regency-core.

JUNYA WATANABE

Another runway, another collaboration. For Junya Watanabe’s SS27 men’s outing, tracksuits created with sports giant Kappa were bedecked with thick chains and lashings of pearls, while bejewelled DHL trucker caps appeared throughout.  Titlted Bling Bling Bling, the line was an ode to 80s hip-hop, and no look was spared from the dazzle. OTT Kappa logos ran the length of sleeves, small crowns were engraved with ‘JW Man’ (the work of artist Kota Okuda) and Bermuda shorts paired with white trainers made plenty of noise. It’s a far cry from AW26, which was a nod to traditional menswear and toyed with spliced denim and mixed textures. Watanabe definitely knows how to keep us on our toes.

LANVIN

Functional-meets-formal was Peter Copping’s MO for Lanvin SS27 men’s, which was inspired by surrealists such as André Breton and Julian Schnabel. Marking the 100th year of Lanvin menswear, Copping worked with British knitwear maker John Smedley to create pieces that harked back to the house’s archive. Clashing patterns were a throughline in the collection, modernised to feel fresh. A particular highlight, though, was a duck-egg blue shirt littered with small eyelets and silver detailing, paired with pinstripe trousers. Chic.

ERL

Floral pink wallpaper, a grandfather clock, antique china, picturesque views of Martha’s Vineyard, lucite heels and floral separates. These were the images that ERL teased on Instagram just before its debut womenswear collection (scheduled in menswear week, no less). For the presentation, which was inspired by a trip to Martha’s Vineyard, models lounged on Barbie-pink plinths in dainty slips, cover-ups and preppy shirts. One model read the sci-fi novel Icerigger in a purple lace bra and 2000s-coded lace-up jeans, reminiscent of a slightly toned-down Xtina in the Dirrty video. In another corner, a trio of models in checked shirts and jeans stood with sweaters draped over their shoulders. Rails were lined with the same florals teased on Instagram, alongside blazers and shirts covered in blooming prints. Jumpers emblazoned with ‘California’ sat next to pink bleached denim and an oversized beach bag. A new ERL chapter has officially arrived.

HERMÈS

Leather bomber jackets, slim ties and polished outerwear formed the backbone of Hermès’ SS27 men’s line. While we wait for Grace Wales Bonner to take the reins next January, the 40-look collection was designed by the in-house team and packed with transitional pieces ranging from chunky herringbone cardigans and collarless shirts to sandals, immaculately tailored trousers and, of course, bags roomy enough to double as overnight luggage. The collection’s staples came in the form of perforated jackets, relaxed shirts that instantly elevated casual trousers and anoraks. Mixed in were compelling shades of pastel pink, lilac and powder blue, adding welcome injections of colour to an otherwise neutral, monochromatic wardrobe. Hermès has proved there’s life in the quiet luxury trend yet.

UNDERCOVER

Undercover designer Jun Takahashi was so inspired by Belgian artist Michaël Borremans that he was compelled to create a line paying homage to the artist’s work, which spans painting, drawing, film and sculpture. He achieved this by rendering Borremans’ work across bomber jackets, turning cardigans into wearable works of art and decorating lace pieces with painterly floral motifs. The outerwear was more subdued, leaning on sharp leather jackets, sleek multi-zip styles in cognac brown, and lightweight nylon jackets so effortlessly fluid you can’t help but run your fingers over them.