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Emilio de la Morena Womenswear A/W10

Painterly prints fused with added textures enhanced de la Morena's signature style.

Emilio de la Morena wasn't prepared to stay in his comfort zone this season and with his foray into natural landscaped prints, new textures and knitwear pieces, combined with his familiar language of languid fabric sculpture that hugs the body, we have an evolved version of what this Spanish designer does. It all came together with a set of handpainted prints on dresses that were delicately painterly in a palette that was both earthy and bright at the same time, picking out from what Mother Nature has to offer and beyond. There were also pieces of outerwear such as a pale blue shruggy wool pocketed jacket that demonstrated that de la Morena could go beyond just a pretty dress.

Dazed Digital: It felt like you pushed it one step further this season - was this a conscious decision?
Emilio de la Morena: That is true. I've always been this designer that is on the outskirts of LFW and I thought that I really needed to push what I do. I've always done prints but I thought, this season, let's do more of it and we added knitwear and texture.

DD: Can you tell us the process about those hand-painted prints?
Emilio de la Morena: I started the collection looking at landscapes of all the planets. It's almost like this woman out in the environment and I came across this artist called Rowan Flexner who does these amazing otherworldly landscapes in sepia or black and white. So I thought it would be interested to add my own colours to them. I wanted to experiment with different colours.

DD: In terms of your own sculptural idea, was there anything you pushed further this season?
Emilio de la Morena: With the sculptural side of me, I normally drape when it's on the stand but you add volume with texture. When I started doing the prints I was thinking about the natural elements and thinking about how that could be represented with the fabrics. You don't always have to go with what you feel comfortable with and sometimes you do need to experiment.

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