So, it turns out that the rumours are true: today, (January 29) Glenn Martens has been confirmed as John Galliano’s replacement at Maison Margiela. After the news broke that Martens would be exiting Y/Project back in December, alongside the news of Galliano’s departure from Margiela after 10 years, the fashion press quickly placed their bets on Martens for Margiela. 

“After Martin, who gave life to the Maison and its unique Artisanal line, and John, who made it the most cutting-edge couture house in the world, I am proud to have a third couturier at its helm. Glenn, who studied at Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts like Martin, has already shown his prowess and his vision in couture,” said Renzo Rosso, CEO of OTB Group and founder of Diesel, where Martens has been artistic director since 2020, and where he will remain – juggling Margiela and Diesel simultaneously, as far as we know. 

Similarly to Martin Margiela, Martens also graduated from Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts, both spent time honing their craft in Paris, and both subsequently worked for Jean Paul Gaultier. After leaving Gaultier in 2012, Martens developed his own eponymous label – which ran for three seasons – before taking the helm at Y/Project in 2013, after the brand’s founder Yohan Serfaty sadly passed away. 

Working on two brands at the same time is no new concept to Martens, who has been designing for both Y/Project and Diesel for the past four years. And though known for his avant-garde, reconstructed streetwear, he proved his couture capabilities back in 2022, when he was asked to return to Jean Paul Gaultier as guest designer. In the industry, he’s known as a pioneer of fresh, future-facing design. And whilst we loved Galliano’s Margiela (particularly that show), Martens for Margiela makes perfect sense.

Scroll through the gallery above to revisit Maison Margiela’s 2024 Artisanal show, and the gallery below to see Martens’ take on JPG couture.