Schiaparelli SS25 couture: Daniel Roseberry flies close to the sun

This morning, Daniel Roseberry kickstarted Paris Couture Week, as he always does, with his latest Schiaparelli show. Named Icarus after the waxen-winged character from Greek mythology, today’s show took place in the Petit Palais museum, home of art from antiquity to the modern age. But despite the title, there were no falls from grace here, just dozens of models readying backstage minutes before the show began.

With all hands on deck, Alex Consani swept through the space in an extravagant feathered greatcoat, a disembodied hand swiping the net headdress from her last minute. Angelina Kendall was there too, in a velvet, scoop-neck bodice with intricate pearl detailing, as was Kendall Jenner, in a taupe corset dress with jutting hips. Elsewhere, the luxurious new collection featured more hand-sewn embroidery on oversized blazers, waves of spiralling silk on one-arm gowns, and dresses made from satin cuir, otherwise known as ‘leather satin’. And also on the runway was former Dazed cover star Mona Tougaard, who entered the Petit Palais show space in a dramatic, floor-sweeping, mocha-coloured gown, as were new faces Loli Bahi and Lulu Tenney, in their own striking Roseberry creations.

For SS25, the US designer had undertaken a spot of time-travelling, explaining in show notes that silhouettes in the collection “nod to a wide range of references – obsessions – from the past century plus.” 90s-style bias-cut column skirts could be seen alongside the “curvy forms” of 20s art deco and 50s-style A-line skirts, while Roseberry also bathed feathers in glycerin to give them what he called a 1930s effect. And it seems that, just like the rest of us, another one of Roseberry’s current obsessions is Nicole Kidman’s new movie Babygirl, or more specifically its second star Harris Dickinson. As Tougaard made her lap of the Petit Palais, George Michael’s 1987 track “Father Figure” rang from the speakers above, a song that Dickinson seductively dances to in a pivotal moment from the movie. Is Roseberry throwing his hat in the ring as the father figure of modern couture? It certainly looked that way this morning.

Scroll through the gallery above to see all the backstage looks from Schiaparelli SS25 couture.