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Lanvin Menswear A/W10

Ossendrijver played with the urban hiker look with big shapes and plenty of volume

Lucas Ossendrijver, under the influence of a certain Mr Elbaz, presented his autumn winter vision early on Sunday morning – the last day of the Paris menswear week. As usual it was one of the hottest tickets around, and Palais de Tokyo was bursting with people and excitement. Coats in navy wool and flowing nylon opened the show, which quickly moved into a section where deconstructed suits showed what they are really made out of!

Attention was early on drawn to the waist of the models through big leather belts, some of the over coats and jackets, others under tuxedo jackets. The colour palette changed widely, taking in brown, navy, grey and wine red. Many models had headbands, boots and rucksacks, giving the impression of a well-dressed urban hiker.

As usual, Lanvin went from effortlessly from casual to formal, even hanging their over sized rucksacks on formal tuxedo jackets. Other visual highlights included a strange hybrid of frilly knitwear and golden pants. Some biker jackets had survived last season’s drive of toughing up the Lanvin brand, but there were still traces the creased and casual boyish tailoring that we have come to associate Lanvin with.

Dazed Digital: What inspired the collection?
Lucas Ossendrijver: It was about a sense of protection, it’s rough for men out there and we need to be protected.

DD: How did that translate onto the catwalk?
Lucas Ossendrijver: When you feel good about yourself, you look assured. The coats were important – they were like cocoons with their big shapes and lots of volume.

DD: What’s the main objective behind a Lanvin collection?
Lucas Ossendrijver: That you can see the person behind the clothes!

DD: You mention volume, but you also worked a lot with proportions, didn’t you?
Lucas Ossendrijver: Yes, with the coats we had cut off, coats that were really long and coats that were quite slim fit. For us it’s about giving a choice and option because we don’t want to dictate to people what to wear - we want to offer alternatives!

DD: What was your favourite piece?
Lucas Ossendrijver: I want the first big coat in the very beginning of the show!