A dark, modern day Duke ruled at Demeulemeester's latest menswear offering.
Ann’s AW10 show on Saturday took place in her usual choice of the Couvent des Cordeliers and was soundtracked by persistent rain from grey skies. The collection was suitably dark and black. But that’s of course standard procedure for this Belgian power designer.
The colour palette focused on black, white, light grey and skin tones. It had the normal Ann staple pieces, like skinny leather cargo pants, long wool suit jackets and sharp army boots. Heavy belts and chains accessories kept the clothes in place. A clear decadence was apparent. Feather boas flowed freely over waistcoats and shirt blouses. Fur – in both black and camel – testified to a sartorial feeling of supremacy.
Dazed Digital: What was your starting point for the collection?
Ann Demeulemeester: I started with a fantasy in my head - I was trying to make a character of my own. It’s a modern day Duke for 2010. His extravagant personality and artistic nobility led to the collection.
DD: What does the Duke represent for you?
Ann Demeulemeester: It represents something noble, but nothing to do with Bourgeois. My duke has edge and extravagance, he’s strange and not like everybody else.
DD: Who’s a modern day Duke for you?
Ann Demeulemeester: Someone like Robert Mapplethorpe or The Thin White Duke!
DD: So did you use Bowie for the show soundtrack?
Ann Demeulemeester: Yeah, some instrumental songs from his time in Berlin.
DD: In what way is the collection noble?
Ann Demeulemeester: I use black, which is a modern and noble shade, and my leather and fur fits into the Duke idea as well.