Pin It

Watching David Koma

The young Central St Martins graduate will be returning to London Fashion Week with a surprising new collection this February

At the young age of 24 all eyes are on David Koma. Having graduated in the summer of 2009 at CSM his MA collection, sold exclusively at Browns, took the fashion world by storm and earned him a place at London Fashion week. His S/S10 collection saw an introduction of bold bright colours and bold glass embellishment – replacing the metal tubing from the previous MA collection that has got him a fair bit of attention thus from. We can't wait to see what Koma will choose as his next hardware motif.

Dazed Digital: Where were you born and what was childhood like for David Koma?
David Koma: I was born in Tbilisi, Georgia, and lived there for the first 10 years of my life, before moving together with my family to Saint-Petersburg.

DD: When did you first come to London?
David Koma: First time I came to London for my BA course in Central Saint Martins in 2002.

DD: When did you decide you wanted to be a designer?
David Koma: I started drawing at a very early age. And, when I was eight I started designing dresses. When I was 13 I participated in young designer contests, and I really loved it. Since than, I just continued.

DD: Where did you study?
David Koma: I was fortunate enough to study in two completely different cities. My art background comes from cultural capital of Russia - Saint-Petersburg, where I’ve been studying in different art schools from the age of ten. And I couldn’t think of a better place to study fashion than London, where I did my BA and MA courses.

DD: Tell me about your MA at Central Saint Martins.
David Koma: During my MA, I was taught by Professor Louise Wilson and it’s something I had dreamt of. I really appreciate that I had that chance! Louise always wants you to deliver the best you can and working hard is the only way to satisfy her high standards. I really enjoyed my time there.

DD: Who are your favourite designers and why?
David Koma: I admire the work of Jeffrey Bean, Pierre Cardin and Azzedine Alaia. Their designs have strong identity; they are timeless with a couture touch. And that is exactly what I’m trying to achieve in my designs as well.

DD: What are your inspirations?
David Koma: I can draw inspiration absolutely everywhere. But, architecture, nudity, and contemporary art always inspire me.

DD: Who would be your ideal muse and why?
David Koma: I think, having a muse is kind of limitation. I just think more about general vibe of a woman. I usually imagine strong, sexual and confident woman.

DD: What have been some of your favourite moments so far?
David Koma: My first standalone show in September 2009 and Beyonce wearing one of my dresses for the MTV EMA.

DD: Your first catwalk show was so soon after graduating – how have you found that? What have you learned from it?
David Koma: Since I’ve graduated, everything was so quick that sometimes I just couldn’t understand what was happening. I just tried to deliver a good collection and hope I succeed.  Obviously, I have become more mature and now I'm ready for everything.

DD: Your S/S 10 collection was quite different to your graduate collection, in terms of the intense, vibrant colour palette, materials and use of glass instead of metal – what was your inspiration, thoughts and feelings?
David Koma: My S/S 10 collection combines dresses using a 60’s influenced, body conscious silhouette with exaggerated curved edging, embellished with multi-colored handmade glass fusing. Inspiration comes from the sculptures of Niki de Saint Phalle in The Tarot Garden in Barcelona with a reference to Arts and Crafts of Sol LeWitt and Kazemir Malevich. I referred to geometric shapes found in organic and architectural structures as well as Minimal Art inspired forms.

DD: How would you describe David Koma?
David Koma: David Koma is a nice guy.

DD: Who in the industry would you like to collaborate with?
David Koma: I’m a huge fan of shoes. So, collaboration with shoe brand or designer would be really interesting for me, Nicholas Kirkwood, for example.

DD: Your designs are already in huge demand by many celebrities - who would you or are you most excited to be working with?
David Koma: Working with Beyonce was a huge pleasure and a great experience. She’s not only an incredible singer and a beautiful woman, but also has an amazing personality. Meeting her inspired me to create a few fantastic things.

DD: Tell me about your choice of materials and why you use embellishment such as metal and glass?
David Koma: My collection always based on strong and sculptural silhouette. So, I’d prefer to use natural fabrics such as wool, leather, satin and silk. Every time in my collections I have one or few unusual techniques and I find it really interesting to work with various materials such as metal or glass.

DD: If you could design for any major fashion houses who would it be and why?
David Koma: Thierry Mugler, because I really like the spirit and aesthetic of the brand.

DD: Any New Year resolutions?
David Koma: The number ten has always been lucky for me… so here’s hoping for the best!

Photographer - Thomas Cooksey
Stylist - Kim Howells
Hair - Naoki Komiya
Makeup - Helen Asher
Models - Ieva and Aida Aniulyte at Storm
Stylist assistant - Reuben Esser
Hair assistant - Shin Sone