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Burberry AW22 collection by Riccardo Tisci
Courtesy of Burberry

Riccardo Tisci invited everyone to dinner at Burberry AW22

The revered Italian designer brought his designs to an IRL runway for the first time since COVID, plus more news you missed, including Jacquemus’ Hawaiian storm and Off-White on the slopes

At the tail end of Paris Fashion Week, Burberry delivered embroidered invites for its AW22 show, bearing the words “Thank you so much”. As runway send-outs become increasingly lavish – note Balenciaga’s iPhones and Off-White’s safes – a needlework hoop and its accompanying white rose felt like a palette cleanser.

So too did the stark, linen table tops that were dotted around City Hall, proving a runway for Riccardo Tisci’s strongest offering yet. From the darkened stalls, a phalanx of men emerged, wearing clingy column skirts, strapped in shearling, fur, and knitted torso-binds. Womenswear swung between the raunchy – in eyelet-strewn outerwear and lacey bustier-dresses – and the prissy – in patterned scarf-skirts and trench-dress hybrids.

The convergence of which was perhaps a pair of tailored trousers, its belted waistband beginning at the bust. Though the label’s wheaten staples made up the bulk of the collection, this ultimately gave way to a bevy of dramatic evening gowns, fuzzy and sculptural, or otherwise festooned in hulking crystal embellishments – all of which felt red carpet-ready.

Meanwhile, that the Jacquemus show – titled (rather forebodingly) Le Splash – resulted in a rainstorm that ultimately destroyed the clothing, was a bittersweet end to fashion month. “It was such a beautiful and special moment,” the designer wrote on Instagram, refusing to let the weather affect his characteristically sunny disposition, despite admitting that “it hurts”.

This season, Jacquemus swapped out the South of France for the island of O’Ahu in Hawaii, working with a local team of models, stylists, and producers to pave an azure blue runway along the beach. The collection itself drew inspiration from island life – salacious, hot pink linen sets, scuba-tailoring, backless blazers, and wide-legged trousers fastened at the hip like sarongs. Everything came ruched and cutaway, styled with snorkel and floatie accessories. When the rain eventually came to a drip, the storm was taken as a blessing, as locals staged a traditional ceremony, giving thanks to the country’s land, people, and ancestry.

In other fashion news this week, Bella Hadid closed out Paris Fashion Week, wearing a pair of fingerless gloves. Miuccia Prada (kind of) brought back her beloved Miu Miu menswear line, as Olivier Rousteing was announced as Jean Paul Gaultier’s next guest couturier, and Elton John was revealed, quite unexpectedly, as the face of Palace. For everything else that may have passed you by click through the gallery below.