There mutterings at the beginning when a jazz band started up and next to it, a man with slicked back hair, a moustache and a tuxedo appeared under chiarascuro light and then we realised it was Hussein Chalayan himself overseeing his slick collection that was some kind of reconfiguration of resort wear. Whilst being smooth and minimal in its cut-out tailoring, straight lines, there were also huge sun hats with cut-out flip down sun visors as well as a series of dresses with rigid looking navy plissé detailing that added something a sumptuous quality. The final set of white dresses where white hands had been subtly incorporated into the bust area just showed that Chalayan's version of minimal sophistication isn't as simple as it looks.

Photos by Clement Dauvent