Back at the Palais de Tokyo, last night Rick Owens hopped off his specially designed Moncler bus to debut his latest collection in the midst of PFW’s ongoing chaos. Unable to make the show? Here’s what you missed.
With the usual crowd of fashion heads making up the designer’s front row this season, there was also the likes of Teyana Taylor and Gwendoline Christie who came to catch a glimpse of Owens’ AW20 offering. But, even more surprising, was the appearance of 90s slow-jam singer, Usher, who even crashed a picture of Michele Lamy at the event. Stranger things have happened we suppose.
MICHELE WAS WEARING RICK
Almost literally. No, he wasn’t strapped on her back with one of SS16’s harnesses – but instead she wore a mask of his face as an uncanny accessory around her waist. Relationship goals! Read all about it here.
THERE WAS A COLLAB WITH GARY NUMAN
This season, Rick sent the legendary electronic musician and new wave frontman something of a fan letter, asking whether he might use one of his tracks, “Down in the Park” as the soundtrack to the show. “I REALIZE THIS IS SHAMELESSLY CHEEKY AND YOU HAVE MORE CURRENT THINGS TO DO,” the letter read, in Owens’ signature caps. “BUT LET ME JUST SAY THAT THE MOMENT I WANT TO CELEBRATE IS THAT OF A SMALL TOWN SISSY IN 1979 FINDING STRENGTH IN THE CHILLY DOOMED GLAMOUR YOU CREATED WITH THAT SONG AND I WANT TO RECREATE IT AS A 58-YEAR-OLD MAN AT THE PEAK OF HIS ALL TOO NUMBERED POWERS.” Especially for the show, the track was remixed and stripped down.
THE COLLECTION? MORE GLAM ROCK VIBES
Offering up what Owens called “a heavy dose of theatrical artifice”, the designer’s AW20 collection expanded on the glam rock vibes of his last, with models heading out onto the runway in tight leather trousers, slashed and skewed asymmetric tops – the trains of which travelled down their legs and fanned out behind them as they walked – and oversized deconstructed outerwear. With flashes of lurid green seen across snakeskin biker jackets, also on the line-up this season were a series of pieces finished in bright cerulean shades of blue, including cropped, scaly jackets with exaggerated knitted shoulders and a vinyl raincoat lined with bold blue shearling. Looks were finished with mirrored sunglasses, thigh-high recycled plastic boots, and gloves which models either wore or carried.
THE FINALE FEATURED HUGE, BLOWN-UP PUFFER CAPES
...but then, what’s a Rick Owens show without a touch of drama? The capes were part of Owens’ recently announced collaboration with Moncler.