It goes without saying that Maison Margiela’s Tabi is one of the most iconic shoes in fashion. Inspired by the traditional Japanese sock of the same name, the immediately recognisable cloven hoof has recurred throughout countless Margiela collections, with see-through plastic, emulsion-splattered leather, and glitter-dipped iterations among just a few of its reimaginations.
Now, the Tabi undergoes its latest update, with a little help from sportswear behemoth Reebok. Making its debut at John Galliano’s latest Artisanal show in Paris this morning, the new silhouette splices the Tabi with Reebok’s Instapump Fury and takes the ugly sneaker to a whole new level. Although no further details have been confirmed as yet, from what we can see the style comes in all-white and all-black, as well as a number of slightly more OTT colourways, with each pair featuring dual branding throughout.
Of course, it’s not the first time the Instapump has been given a high-fashion makeover, with Demna Gvasalia also scribbling all over a pair and unleashing it on the world at his SS17 Vetements show.
When it came to the rest of the collection, Galliano explained he had been ‘exploring, re-evaluating, and rebelling against the codes of bourgeoisie dress’ for SS20, sending out a collection made up of his signature gender-defying deconstructed outerwear (including a “borrowed-from-your-boyfriend” inside-out trench), bias-cut skirts, layered shirt dresses, and high-waisted, wide-legged trousers with military-esque flourishes. Many of the pieces were crafted from recycled charity shop finds the designer encouraged his team to dig out and bring back to the studio.
Looks were finished with 30s-inspired pillbox hats, diaphanous scarves which covered models’ faces, and more than a few pairs of classic Tabis – and yes, Leon Dame was back to take his turn on the runway, with a walk slightly less furious but no less flamboyant than last season.
