Here’s what went downBurberry
Following on from Vivienne Westwood’s rallying AW19 show, at which models gave powerful speeches on climate change and government corruption, and Gareth Wrighton’s debut as part of the Fashion East fold, drawing Sunday at LFW to a close was Riccardo Tisci. The Italian delivered his second collection for Burberry, in a co-ed show that channelled the brand’s heritage as well as staples of British culture and style. Here’s what you missed...
IT TOOK PLACE DEEP IN THE TATE MODERN
While Tisci’s debut took over a giant ex-postal depot in Battersea back in September, it was the Tate Modern’s tanks that provided the stage for his second show (shout out to artist Marina Abramović, a long-time Tisci muse, who was in the FROW). It was basically two show sets in one – while some guests were seated in a wood-panelled space, others were in one encircled by scaffolds and ladders. When the show started, groups of young performers in hoodies and tracksuit bottoms began to climb up and through the second structure, before hanging there to watch it all unfold.
THE SHOW STARTED STREET READY
With Tisci dedicating the show to “the youth of today”, the first half felt distinctly inspired by British youth and style culture, then and now – from football fans to streetwear kids in puffa jackets, trainers, and crossbody bags. Opening was Sora Choi, who made her way out onto the runway wearing a tracksuit top under a blazer, before Gigi Hadid appeared in a sporty polo shirt overlaid with a black corset (this is Riccardo Tisci, after all). Soon after, came models wearing a series of Burberry check looks, including track-style tops and joggers, and oversized shirts and puffer jackets with clashing panels. Many of the looks were finished off with the now-ubiquitous chest bag, which in this case were crafted from bold-hued leather and emblazoned with the British house’s new logo.
...THEN TURNED HIGH CLASS
Eventually, the streetwear-style looks made way for a more sophisticated section of the show, as one model in a suit made his way through the space, signalling the start of a procession of camel-coloured looks – including trench coats, suits, and tailoring. This was the return of the ladylike Burberry woman and the smart Burberry man from last season. In-keeping with the refined looks that made up this part of the presentation, accessories included leather driving gloves, structured leather bag, and luggage-inspired clutches.
THE CASTING WAS PREDICTABLY MAJOR
Proving – if you had any shred of a doubt – that this was London’s headline show, the casting featured a line up of some of the biggest names around. Aside from Gigi, the legendary Stella Tennant also hit the runway, joined by red-headed Tisci muse Mariacarla Boscono, and other heavyweights including Natalia Vodianova and Irina Shayk.
THE UNION JACK MADE AN APPEARANCE
Tisci seems to have settled back in to life in London since arriving here last summer: so much so he sent a series of pieces bearing the Union Jack out onto the runway this season. One model wore a black vinyl puffer jacket with toggle ties (which looked kind of like a 2019 update on the classic duffle coat) onto which a parachute-like cape bearing the flag had been attached with a logo-detail harness. With the date the UK is set to leave the EU just a few weeks away, could it have been a statement on the UK going it alone? A metaphor for how our country is essentially jumping out of a plane and praying that its parachute opens? Quite possibly.