Today marks John Galliano’s first Maison Margiela Artisanal menswear show, as the iconoclastic designer presents his vision of SS19 in Paris – an Eastern-tinged collection that blurred the line between gender. Here’s everything you need to know.
Galliano tasked American artist Tony Matelli with creating four unique sculptures for the show, which were dotted around the venue. The figures – some headless or torsoless, and some laid on the floor as if they’d fallen off their stands – had various pieces of fruit including watermelons, passionfruit, and peeled apples positioned on top of them.
...AND A PODCAST TO INTRODUCE THE COLLECTION
Released on Spotify this morning, The Memory of… With John Galliano gave the designer the opportunity to discuss the ideas behind his new collection with those who might not hear them otherwise (ie: those that didn’t receive an invitation to the show). The podcast series will be ongoing with new episodes released after every collection.
THE SHOW HAD A FETISHISTIC EDGE
Wipe-clean, skinny vinyl trousers and jumpsuits were cinched at the midriff by delicate bustiers and corsets, while feathers trimmed the waistband of wide-legged trousers, and sheathes of the lightest chiffon bound and restrained the models' shoulders. Satin suits cut loose and languid were worn open with nothing underneath, and embroidered, kimono-style jackets demonstrated an Eastern influence: a part of the world Galliano has long been fascinated with. Elsewhere, leather biker jackets were layered over chiffon dresses in rich jewelled hues. It was mid-70s gender-bending Bowie meets Japan in 2089, with looks finished with tactile rubber gloves, thigh-high boots, and coloured skull caps.
GALLIANO GOT V INTO CUTTING ON THE BIAS FOR SS19
Galliano explained he had gotten heavily into cutting garments on the bias when it came to this collection, which is not traditionally a method used in menswear. This manifested itself in vinyl, wipe-clean capes, diaphanous, button-down shirt dresses, and sharply-tailored overcoats that sat in stark contrast to the muted colours and chiffon-light finish of the rest of the offering. “The natural elasticity (of the bias) is the most modern thing any guy could wear. It’s liberating, it’s light, it gives you an illustrative line, it’s relaxed-looking and it’s sensual,” Galliano said post-show.
IT’S ALL CHANGE AT THE HOUSE
Discussing today’s Artisanal presentation and the future of Maison Margiela as part of the first In Memory Of... podcast, Galliano revealed that his next women’s show, taking place during Paris Fashion Week in September, will bring his menswear and womenswear lines together. That’s right: Margiela’s going co-ed.