The principles of the Neapolitan tailoring school could be summarised into three main concepts: soft yet elegant lines, sleek silhouettes and an impeccable cut. Many Neapolitan tailors entered the modern era of menswear fashion thanks to the accuracy they displayed in their designs: Adolfo De Nicola combined the British with the Neapolitan style, creating uniquely sober suits, while Giacomo Bruno considered the details of his suits, such as the lapel curve in an evening jacket, as works of art, rather than just as a matter of style.

Forgotten by many, the principles of the Neapolitan tailoring school have now been rediscovered in a special menswear line designed by Francesco Scognamiglio for Milanese brand Allegri. A leading brand in quality rainwear and sportswear, Allegri recently created three different lines: “Allegri Milano”, a contemporary classic collection for everyday needs; “Allegri Blue Label”, that features garments ideal for the free time, and a special collection called “010109”, designed by Francesco Scognamiglio. The latter could be considered almost as a capsule collection, it indeed features 15 items, from capelet style trench coats to rain capes, bohemian safari jackets with a knot around the collar and luxurious white suits.

Fabrics include treated cotton, parachute silk and ultra-light linen, and the entire collection is based on the principles of the Neapolitan tailoring school. Each item shows a great attention to details: the shoulder construction, the asymmetrical closings, the covered buttons, the tone-on-tone stitching and a special soft elegance give the impression the garments were in fact bespoke and tailor-made.

Dazed Digital: There is often a little story, almost a tale, behind your womenswear collections, what’s the inspiration behind the “010109” line you designed for Allegri?
Francesco Scognamiglio: The collection moves from a tale of a modern Neapolitan prince, a young man who travels through the world. He is a free spirit, travelling on a boat, moving from a mountain cottage to a country house. His wardrobe - including the Allegri garments inspired in their materials and cut to the Neapolitan tailoring traditions - symbolises his carefree lifestyle.  

Dazed Digital: What was the first thing you did when you started working on this collection?
Francesco Scognamiglio: I first researched Allegri’s history and heritage, trying to understand the brand’s identity and discovering its soul. After capturing Allegri’s spirit, I tried to inject into it some modern inspirations, innovating the collection of the “010109” line. I’m very happy with the results we achieved. My heart and soul are in the entire collection and this is clear in the attention to details and in the great tailoring and craftsmanship traditions we followed, principles I endorse and always apply when I usually design my womenswear collections.

Dazed Digital: Did you find it difficult working on a menswear collection?
Francesco Scognamiglio: I think it was great being able to experiment with menswear and working with fabrics that are quite different from the ones I use for my womenswear collections. I found it easy designing menswear, so maybe I had a latent desire for designing a man’s wardrobe. I genuinely hope I will be able to release soon my own menswear collection.

Dazed Digital: Your ideal woman is strong, passionate and powerful, who is your male muse?
Francesco Scognamiglio: An aristocratic yet metropolitan prince. I like to call him a contemporary “scugnizzo” or street urchin, who travels on the underground, but lounges in luxury hotels. He symbolises a sort of convergence of opposites and can resolve the dichotomies and contradictions of the modern and complex times we’re living in.