Saint Laurent show an (almost) all-black everything collection at PFW

As temperatures hit -6 in Paris, Anthony Vaccarello staged his fourth Saint Laurent show at the Fontaine du Trocadéro tonight. Not only did the designer show a vast collection of womenswear looks, he also sent an extensive menswear offering down the runway too. Here’s what went down.

IT WAS HELD IN A BIG BLACK BOX

Complete with several hundred studio lights fastened to the ceiling which flashed in alternating lines throughout the show, pulsing to the music. Guests sat in tiered rows facing a shiny black mirror-like wall, as the models marched the length of the space in a long procession.

EVERYTHING WAS BLACK

Okay, almost everything: a turquoise green suit and a few herringbone pieces made an appearance too. But for the most part, the palette was limited to one monochromatic shade. Making up the collection were variations of Le Smoking and archive-inspired brocade-edged jackets that were teamed with shorter-than-short sequinned hotpants, floor sweeping leather skirts, and shiny vinyl trousers. Elsewhere, see-through blouses with lace detailing, feather trims and sculptural cocktail dresses (as modelled by Kaia Gerber) also in (surprise!) black, were the order of the day.

IT WAS A CO-ED SHOW (KIND OF)

Nestled between the first series of women’s looks and the finale procession, as with last season, Vaccarello sent a full collection of menswear down the runway too. Featuring fine-knit sweaters, leather outerwear, huge Russian-style hats and, of course, plenty of skinny tailoring, the look was typically Saint Laurent. But then, if it’s not broken, then why fix it?

THERE WAS AN ‘ENCORE’

Just when we thought it was all over, a piano version of Kanye West’s “Runaway” echoed over the speakers Instead of a traditional finale, out came the girls (yep, all of ‘em) in a series of colourful floral patterned dresses which sparkled under the light.

THE FINISHING TOUCHES WERE V GLAM

...and included crystal encrusted head wraps, heavy chandelier earrings and some pretty amazing feathered sandals, complete with vertiginous heels (and then some). Elsewhere, the looks were finished with tall, wide-brimmed hats and slouchy leather boots with chunky platform heels.

Watch a film shot at the AW18 show below – video and creative direction Bureau Future.