Menswear is over, which means Paris is now host to the couture shows – as well as the collections of brands like Proenza Schouler, who last season relocated from NYC to join the schedule. First up was Maria Grazia Chiuri’s latest Dior show, held today at the Musée Rodin. Here’s everything you need to know.
The show took place, as usual, in the grounds of the Musée Rodin, where a giant reflective black and white box had been erected, complete with a chequerboard floor. Inside, guests sat on painted chairs beneath walls that looked as if they were hung with thick white linen – only they were actually cast from plaster which merely looked like draped fabric. From the ceiling hung surrealist sculptures, like mouths, noses and ears, as well as polished black birdcages, which rose into the air as the lights went down. Occasionally, the sound of a mysterious ringing phone punctuated the pre-show chatter.
MARIA GRAZIA WAS INSPIRED BY SURREALISM
Couture is fashion’s most artistic and and dreamlike expression, reasoned Maria Grazia – so what better movement to take inspiration from than that of the Surrealists? One dress was covered in glittering jewelled eyes, while another had beading which outlined the shape of breasts. Diaphanous layers of black tulle and silvery fishnet material was offset by heavy, luxurious velvet, as part of what proved to be a characteristically dreamy collection.
THE COLLECTION HAD DREAMLIKE TWISTS
Like domino coats, a white glove grasping an ankle, fishnet tights that covered shoes, and a number of sheer veils and masks, some of which were decorated with delicately embroidered insects. Finishing touches came in the form of graphic 1960s-inspired cat-eye make-up and temporary tattoos that decorated collarbones with statements like “Imaginaire c’est ce qui tend à devenir rèel” or “Imaginary is what tends to become real.”
SHE REFERENCED ANOTHER REBELLIOUS FEMALE ARTIST
Leonor Fini – who had her first exhibition in the gallery run by Mr Dior himself – was a key reference. The artist was a friend of the designer and often wore Dior, as she explored and subverted the line between real life and art. Continuing Grazia Chiuri’s tendency of highlighting the work of a different rebellious female figure within her collections, Fini’s influence could be felt in the collection’s attitude, which married traditional couture with a subtly erotic, subversive edge.
THE PARTY WILL CONTINUE TONIGHT
When the show space will be reinterpreted and become the stage for a surrealist masked ball, inspired, presumably, by the infamous party thrown by the Rothschilds in 1972. On the way out of the door, guests were handed envelopes full of temporary Dior tattoos to put the final touches to their outfits. Expect to see it all go down on the ‘gram later.
MARIA GRAZIA OPENS UP ABOUT HER INSPIRATIONS
In a newly released video interview. Watch it below: