From the return of the Buberry check to Rick Owens’ fashionable macs, these are the pieces you’ll need now before they reach iconic status
Before the SS18 womenswear shows – which seem to have come and gone quicker than you could say Ann Demeulemeester – we announced a partnership with Byronesque, which would pick its Future Vintage edit of the runway pieces today that would be iconic collectibles in a few years. We assume you followed along on @dazedfashion, but here, we round up the full selection of items from Vaquera and Helmut Lang in New York to Y/Project and Saint Laurent in Paris.
RAF SIMONS’ COMPLEX MINIMALISM AT CALVIN KLEIN
“Whether Raf Simons’ tenure at Calvin Klein is long or short, the energy he has given back to the brand with this complex minimalism is something we think Glenn O’Brien, (who helped create the CK Kate Moss effect), would approve of.”
VAQUERA’S ‘FUCK YOU’ TO THE SYSTEM
If one item captures culture today, it’s this from Vaquera. Gender neutral, fucked up corporate culture and people challenging the system – in this case, challenging the preconceived notion of what a shirt is.
SHAYNE OLIVER’S TRANSPARENT BRIEFCASE AT HELMUT LANG
GARETH PUGH’S MORE-THAN-ART FASHION LOOKS
Some future vintage is wearable and some should be collected and treasured like a piece of contemporary art. Other than wanting to see this Gareth Pugh look on Lil’ Kim, we will see this in a museum sooner or later. It was tough to choose just one piece from this skilled collection, which echoes the lasting creative significance of previous master of technical skill, Issey Miyake.
MOLLY GODDARD’S GLITTER PARTY DRESSES
Molly Goddard’s ability to move beyond the tulle demonstrates her staying power as a designer that is uplifting the spirits of fashion. This show felt like the fun of early Body Map and the clothes, especially this dress, will stand out as one of the rare pure jewels of integrity in our current overhyped society.
BURBERRY’S ICONIC CHECK PLASTIC MAC
This really is the season of the redux Burberry has successfully gone back to its roots. Other than the caps (which are an Oasis no brainier), this will be the plastic mac to sit alongside Margiela’s plastic garment bag coat from 1997. Different era, but in time, Burberry will have the same stature.
With so many extravagant pieces to be distracted by, the future vintage items in this Gucci collection are probably the most overlooked and least obvious. This plastic bag will be worth keeping as a nod to this moment of glamorous irony.
This Moschino collection is a Met show in itself, but for the ‘buy now, wear now’ collectors – look after this jacket (in black). It’s the piece that will be as in demand as the Versace and Jean Paul Gaultier signature leathers are now.
VERSACE’S REVIVED ARCHIVE PIECES
We believe that vintage fashion and subculture are the future of fashion. And this re-issue season at Versace proves it. It will be interesting to see if it spikes demand for the originals. We also believe that just because it’s old doesn't mean it’s good. But we respect the homage here and its place in future vintage fashion history.
This season/fashion era is pretty much dominated by the homage/redux/revival, as designers shift from downplaying their references to celebrating them. But one designer stands out as being relevant to the above, while standing for his own thing and the test of time too. The layered denim, pleats and perfectly draped boots will be Y/Project classics in 15 years time. When no doubt designer Glenn Martens will be at the helm of a major heritage house.
SAINT LAURENT’S YVES-ERA THROWBACK
Saint Laurent will always be Future Vintage because the consistency of its design DNA is always (borrowed) and relevant. Even if the almost 100 looks from the major house feels diluted, it does make picking the future vintage hits out much easier. Skip straight to the puff and glitter. Both themes you can trace back to Yves, made relevant for now, (if that’s even a thing, because this is the redux season, so is it now or then?). Either way, this will be remembered as the popular post-Hedi era and significant for that in of itself.
RICK OWENS’ WHITE GOTH LOOK (AND SHOW GUEST RAIN MACS)
It seems that Rick Owens never ages – even with a lifetime achievement. His designs always look like something you’ve never seen before, and yet the Owens signature silhouette can never be copied. A white gothic evolution headed for a Met exhibit and wise collectors. This is fashion history. Buy it now. And if you got one of the show rain macs, look after it. You just scored.
UNDERCOVER’S CINDY SHERMAN HOMAGE
Cindy Sherman has been the inspiration for a few designers at this point, especially Japanese brands. Add this merch-like t-shirt to a collection of her many influences over the fashion decades. And add the earrings as an extreme reference to this oversized era.
CÉLINE’S BEIGE TONES
Is Céline more relevant again because it’s talking to the Vetements generation? Or because we’ve caught up with the Phoebe Philo effect? Regardless, look back on this moment that beige came back in a big way.
BALENCIAGA’S BUM BAGS
Redux nods were many in this collection. Wear and care for bum bags, of which there are so many to choose from. This one will sell out.
YOHJI YAMAMOTO’S SIGNATURES
What an epic return to the master’s signature themes. A nod to the bustle from 1995, and the heart-wrenching Wedding Collection of 1999. This collection was a future vintage fashion moment in time because, for what felt like forever, fashion slowed down and remembered why it exists.