Jeremy Scott on Moschino AW17: ‘My country is in the toilet’

Jeremy Scott is fashion’s king of pop. In a similar way to Andy Warhol, he appropriates imagery from popular culture into his work – be it the McDonald’s logo, Looney Tunes characters or Barbie dolls. For this season’s menswear and pre-AW17 womenswear collection for Moschino, it was the “autobots” of the Transformers franchise that Scott looked to, which were featured battling it out on prints throughout the show.

This, along with the military references and camo print, was a reaction to the “global situation” as he called it backstage after the show in an interview with Vogue. “My country is in the toilet,” he said of the political climate in his native America. “And when my country is in the toilet, the world is in the toilet. We have to fight for everything we believe in. That’s the expression I wanted to use.”

The collection also featured accessories made in collaboration with cult jewellery maker Judy Blame. Co-founder of 80s fashion collective House of Beauty and Culture and one of London’s underground heroes, Blame has already collaborated with the likes of Kim Jones for Louis Vuitton and Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons.

With Scott, he created a series of berets adorned in buttons, key chains and safety pins – reflecting his DIY and decidedly punk signature aesethetic. Blame’s handiwork was also seen on coat lapels and gloves which were similarly strewn with buttons, along with belly chain-like belts that wound their way around the models’ torsos.

Scott may have been reflecting on political crises, but his collaborative pieces with Blame brought a sense of fun and punk to the Milanese runway.