Last week, the largest event on the Nordic fashion calendar kicked off in Copenhagen. Spread over three days, the first of the city’s biannual fashion weeks saw both established and emerging designers showcase their AW16 collections. From blue-haired, raving heroines at Ganni to masked, sportswear-clad servants at Han Kjøbenhavn – in case you missed it, here’s a round-up of the best shows.
Han Kjøbenhavn co-founders Jannik Wikkelsø Davidsen and Tim Faith Hancock decided to host their show in a graffiti-covered warehouse in Christiania – a former hippie commune which presently exists as an autonomous neighbourhood.
“She’s our life. It’s a promise we make to each other. Protect the crest. Protect her. We will never stand down. She will remain guarded,” read the show notes. The “she” in question was a giant, dilapidated teddy bear with a wooden structure extending outwards from its chest. In 80s style track tops, flares and belted puffer jackets with faces obscured by frayed, grain sack masks – the boys attached their mouths to the teddy’s framework via pipes.
BY MALENE BIRGER
The By Marlene Birger show was held in the concert hall of the Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek – one of Copenhagen’s most revered museums. In a space lined with mounted statues of Roman patricians, the label’s creative director Christina Exsteen had a structure erected in the centre that looked like a 3D interpretation of a Piet Mondrian composition.
Models walked around the display in looks that were distinctly 70s – from flowing macs, to enamel drop earrings and flared jumpsuits. In terms of the soundtrack, the show opened with classical violin which soon turned into Beyonce’s “7/11” and ended with the hit track “Rewind” from Dazed’s latest cover star, Kelela.
ASGER JUEL LARSEN
With its luxurious interior, the Hotel D’Angleterre seemed to serve as a complete contradiction to Asger Juel Larsen’s AW16 show. The designer’s ‘Born Worn’ collection was all about “the story of men that have made fashion redundant” – this meant models clad in jeans with distressed knees, blurred camouflage jackets and Dr Martens with violent red laces. Aside from the obvious punk influence, there were also hints of the American West evidenced by the bolo ties and cowboy boots.
To add to the general air of unruliness, brothers Simon and Rasmus Littauer from the respective Danish bands Broke and Lucky Birds performed a live electronic set which culminated in a Motörhead cover.
Entitled “Damon & The Queen”, Ganni’s AW16 show took place at Copenhagen’s Penthouse nightclub. Dimly lit by quaint 30s table lamps, guests were ushered into booths that faced the dancefloor-turned-show space. The sound of Leftfield’s track “Inspection Check One” blasted over the speakers as models filed in led by newcomer and former Céline campaign girl, Frederikke Sofie.
Among the throng was fellow newbie Ina Maribo Jensen sporting a graphic print t-shirt which brazenly read “Game over you lose”. From the collection which featured pink gothic lettering and glittery silver calf boots, to the models who spontaneously broke out into dance, there was a strong sense of hedonistic rebellion.