Last night Gypsy Sport, leaders of the gender-blending fashion revolution, offered another progressive and androgynous collection for AW16. Showing as part of the CFDA’s second ever New York Fashion Week: Men’s, the show followed presentations from the likes of Calvin Klein and Public School and displayed a new, more traditional approach by designer Rio Uribe. As opposed to the circus-inspired theatrics and guerilla tactics of previous years, this season Gypsy displayed a heightened sense of maturity whilst remaining true to the unconventional aesthetic that has become its signature. 

The collection itself was a sartorial tribute to the effeminate style of dress that was found in the rap community during the late 90s and early 00s. During this throwback period, musicians like R Kelly and the entire Dipset crew were softening the “gangster” perceptions of hip-hop clothing style with pastel hues, glossy and fuzzy textures and tailored cut-and-sew garments. Killa Cam’s iconic pink Mercedes Benz Fashion Week look from 2002 was mimicked by Uribe with an array of baby-blue satin tracksuits and pastel two-piece sets. Andre 3000’s vibe of patchwork, patterned bell-bottoms were slung low and layered over logo boxer shorts. Long vests were left open and paired with baggy jeans and tinted frames, reminding us of bleach-haired legend Sisqo and era-defining brands like Rocawear. Other stand-alone pieces, like bejewelled do-rags and flip brim caps, borrowed from a forgotten 90s RnB culture.

Gypsy Sport actively bridges the gap between luxury menswear and street fashion – AW16 being a prime example of the union of the two markets. The collection took very raw, downtown elements, and finessed them with luxe, refined embellishments, with avant-garde pieces like giant funnel neck collars contrasted with staple essentials like winter coats and nondescript jeans. This evolution into increased wearability only indicates the growth and maturity as Gypsy Sport progresses. “I want it to be the people’s brand,” Uribe told Dazed last year. “There will always be cultural patchwork, mashed-up references, global beauty, diversity, adversity.”