As the fashion press flocked to the final shows of London Collections: Men, news quickly began to spread that musical legend David Bowie had died after a secret 18-month battle with cancer. Designers went about their business with a heavy heart, and subtle tributes from the likes of Paul Smith, Xander Zhou and Burberry began to trickle in.

However it was Katie Eary that managed to nail a tribute to the star’s most distinctive aesthetic with an unplanned but prophetic tribute to Ziggy Stardust. Speaking backstage after the show, which was styled by Dazed’s own Elizabeth Fraser-Bell, Eary described being halfway through preparation for the collection when she stumbled upon a documentary entitled The Sacred Triangle – Bowie, Iggy & Lou 1971-1973. “I was like, ‘I’ve got to start again!’ this is just way more interesting.” She decided to go back to the drawing board with the documentary as inspiration.

The two-hour film, directed by Alec Lindsell, opens with a clip of the musician’s bisexual alien alter-ego Ziggy Stardust announcing his retirement on stage. By this point in 1973 David Bowie was a bonafide superstar, but widespread critical and commercial success only came after the release of four albums. It seems surprising given the strength of the icon’s musical legacy, but The Rise and Fall of Ziggy Stardust only debuted at #5 on the UK album chart, despite going on to sell over one million copies in the UK alone. The documentary explores Bowie’s career throughout those pivotal years alongside the parallel successes of Lou Reed and Iggy Pop. During this period the trio were intrinsically linked in terms of musical input and the “sacred triangle” referred to in the documentary’s title was formed, with all three musicians proving integral to the development of their respective careers.

“The documentary explores Bowie’s career alongside the parallel successes of Lou Reed and Iggy Pop. During this period the trio were intrinsically linked, with all three musicians proving integral to the development of their respective careers”

Eary took inspiration from this period in particular, citing the “cross-pollination of ideas” between the trio as the trigger that set her mind racing. She also became engrossed in the idea of Iggy Pop dating Warhol superstar Nico, and it was the idea of them all in the studio swapping and sharing clothes that became a visual reference point for the collection. 

Other sartorial references to the stars of the documentary came via a plethora of visual nods to Ziggy’s glam rock style. The more extreme looks included crushed velvet jackets in cobalt blue and burnt orange, as well as metallic silver trousers adorned with lace-up details. The aesthetic was softened with the inclusion of a series of loose silk shirts, complete with a perpendicular striped print. Although Eary’s tribute was unintentional, the omnipresence of Bowie on today’s runways only served to emphasise his ongoing unfluence. The icon may be gone, but he will never be forgotten.

See the first of the four-part documentary below: