“There were a lot of mixed feelings about femininity but this time, rather than just being like, ‘Ah, there’s the girl’, it was a little confused,” designer Simone Rocha said backstage. After a trip to Japan earlier this year and as a devout fan of Nobuyoshi Araki’s work, Rocha’s designs combined palatable femininity and bondage motifs.
For SS16, Pugh paid homage to fashion week’s new home and a place that plays an integral part of his history. “For me Soho’s a little bit like Disneyland or a fairground, it’s about fantasy or escapism, you can go there and be somebody else” – and that’s exactly how his models came across. Dressed in 70s-style codes and with faces painted on by Val Garland, they embodied the anomalous and immortal spirit of the area.
Technology became synonymous with the enemy in this collection from Claire Barrow. Entitled “broken machines” her signature sketches appeared macabre – as abstract shapes were sprawled across her garments to represent disjointed fragments.
Styled by Dazed’s own Robbie Spencer, MM6 Maison Margiela did away with the conventions of gendered dressing – as men wore lashings of baby pink and pull-on all over sequin gloves. Models also turned into percussion instruments – they sported dangling triangle earrings and tambourines morphed into chokers.
After she rolled up to David Cameron’s house in a tank, Vivienne Westwood showed her campaign against fracking was only set to gain momentum. Dressed in printed two-pieces and Westwood’s signature off the shoulder dresses, her austerity army carried picket signs with the words “fracking is a crime”.
Louis Vuitton opened Series 3: Past, Present, Future – the label’s free exhibition which allows visitors to navigate through the mind of creative director, Nicolas Ghesquière. Running until October 18th, revisit the designer’s AW15 collection through a series of multi-sensory installations.
True to his signature style, Ashish Gupta didn’t hold back on the sequins. From the crown of his models’ heads, to the white chiffon designs they were wearing – sequins in every colour glittered up his gang. The sparkle was offset however, by the graphic print skateboards that the models carried underarm.