Initial reaction:

Clad in leather corsets and 80s heavy metal tees, Ashley Williams’ off-beat gang were the kind of girls who would stay up late on a school night, researching cults on Wikipedia and sewing sect emblems onto their clothing.

The great escape:

“The key to saving the future can be found only in the past...” declared the booming voiceover that opened the show, as Williams’ subversive squad stormed out dripping in 80s and 90s references. The graphics, courtesy of Fergus Purcell, were stamped across knit jumpers and skirts: a mismatch of skate subculture visuals and imagery sourced from the Nike-loving Heaven’s Gate cult of the 90s. Fur bucket hats, PVC dresses worn over polo necks, painted totes and a jumper with a giant ‘LAST CHANCE TO ESCAPE PLANET EARTH’ slogan were enough to signify that these girls had had it with conventional dress codes. It would've been no surprise if they’d mounted their skateboards post-show and kick-pushed the fuck outta there.

Express yourself:

Williams got her inspiration from riot-grrl founder Kathleen Hanna and Chloë Sevigny, so it was no surprise that the designer’s troop featured the likes of rock ‘n’ roll muse Alice Dellal and it-girl Georgia May Jagger. “With the casting we just wanted to have strong personalities, because it’s about celebrating girls for just being themselves and not like anyone else – that’s what’s going to make you the happiest,” explained Williams.

The soundtrack to Ashley Williams AW15: 

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