Playing with texture and the concept of deconstruction, Helen Lawrence took inspiration from the tape wrapped sculptures of British artist Phyllida Barlow to create a raw collection of homespun knitwear.
Binded by yarn:
At the heart of Lawrence’s design aesthetic is her fundamental interest in the complex unravelling of textural fabrics. This season saw the designer utilise a partial knit process taking dense sections of emerald green and powder blue lambswool and teaming them with elastomeric yarn, leaving it unfinished to create holes in the garments. Oversized silhouettes were subtly accentuated through the addition of ribbed knit waist bands while the incorporation of sturdy leather boots contrasted this patent softness.
Transforming the Chelsea College of Arts into a dystopian wonderland, Helen staged a presentation scattered with meteor-like rocks. That is with the exception of those spray painted gold – a decision which the designer formed in the early stages of the collection’s conception – “I had a colour board which was really romantic and dark, but every now and then there would be a pop of gold or an image of a person in a gold frame, so I wanted to add that into the collection.”