Initial reaction:

Taxi Driver. A yellow cab being driven by a lookalike of Travis Bickle (Robert DeNiro’s character in Scorsese’s 70s classic) was parked on the catwalk, with a map of New York projected onto the wall behind. This was a collection for the anti-heroes.

Fight Club:

Featuring gun-embroidered shirts and phrases such as “My body fights me always”, the collection was quietly run through with a latent aggression. This season’s Antonio Marras man has to be tough to survive in the city that never sleeps, and much like Tyler Durden, prefers to keep to the fringes.

How it was worn:

Mixing and matching textured materials and patterns – including traditional camouflage jackets scarred by red tartan and fur-collared overcoats. The whole look was topped off by black fur trapper hats, like a more mature take on Holden Caulfield’s signature, and chunky boots with thick contrast tread.

The soundtrack to Antonio Marras AW15: