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Hermès SS15, womenswear, Dazed backstage
Dasha Denisenko (Women) and Fei Fei Sun (Elite) Backstage at Hermès SS15Photography Jacques Habbah

Hermès SS15

On a sand covered runway, Christophe Lemaire's sends out his final collection for the house – a vision of serenity and understated luxury. See an exclusive backstage film here

Initial reaction:

It was less of a swan song but more of a reminder of the synergy between Christophe Lemaire and a brand like Hermès, which has celebrated understated luxury and craftsmanship above ostentatious design. Cream and white layers in alligator printed suede, oversized Hermès prints blown up on belted in scarf dresses and loose silken separates in dusky pink and golden yellow all summed up the sense of freeing ease that Lemaire imbued on the house. These clothes don't need bells and whistles and neither does the house when you have an arsenal of fine fabrications.

The set:

A sand covered runway leading to a sunset created by lighting. The girls walked serenely in their flatform sandals and portrayed a sense of calm that washed over us at this final show of fashion month.

What's next:

Lemaire will leave to concentrate on his own brand expounding quiet luxury, and Hermès will have Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski. Vanhee-Cybulski comes with experience at The Row and Céline, which bodes well for figuring out the subtleties of this house. Lemaire's four years at Hermès will be noted for resetting and cleansing the tone, and it's probable that Vanhee-Cybulski will carry that through. 

Backstage at Hermès SS15 by Julien Pujol: