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Rochas SS15
Daphne Groeneveld (Women) backstage at Rochas SS15Photography Jacques Habbah

Rochas SS15

The hyperfeminine reaches new heights: Alessandro Dell’Acqua contrasts virginal shyness with blooming sensuality – and tops it off with industrial belts with ‘R’ stamped clasps

Initial reaction:

Three collections in and Alessandro Dell’Acqua is really making his mark as the creative lead at Rochas, elevating the house’s prim, hyper-feminine signature look to bold new heights. For SS15, the Italian-born designer explored the balance between “virginal shyness” and “blooming sensuality” – juxtaposing gauzy, Victoriana-inspired Chantilly lace column dresses and tulle apron skirts with varsity ‘R’ logos, sporty pop-socks, military belts and athletic mesh panels.

All tied up:

It’s impossible not to talk about the thick industrial belts with logo-stamped clasps, which were fastened over the bust of transparent gowns, high-neck silk blouses and jacquard jackets, riffing on the idea of restraint while creating a fresh new evening-wear code.

Insta-worthy pieces:

Crowd pleasers consisted of flirty enamel and crystal heels (an evolution of AW14’s sell-out yellow feather flats), transparent polo tops with go-faster stripes, a glistening gold fit-and-flare coat and a flesh-coloured tulle dress with matching button-up shirt – as sported by the iconic supermodel Kirsten Owen, who closed the show in flashbulb-popping style.