Three collections in and Alessandro Dell’Acqua is really making his mark as the creative lead at Rochas, elevating the house’s prim, hyper-feminine signature look to bold new heights. For SS15, the Italian-born designer explored the balance between “virginal shyness” and “blooming sensuality” – juxtaposing gauzy, Victoriana-inspired Chantilly lace column dresses and tulle apron skirts with varsity ‘R’ logos, sporty pop-socks, military belts and athletic mesh panels.
All tied up:
It’s impossible not to talk about the thick industrial belts with logo-stamped clasps, which were fastened over the bust of transparent gowns, high-neck silk blouses and jacquard jackets, riffing on the idea of restraint while creating a fresh new evening-wear code.
Crowd pleasers consisted of flirty enamel and crystal heels (an evolution of AW14’s sell-out yellow feather flats), transparent polo tops with go-faster stripes, a glistening gold fit-and-flare coat and a flesh-coloured tulle dress with matching button-up shirt – as sported by the iconic supermodel Kirsten Owen, who closed the show in flashbulb-popping style.