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Givenchy SS15, womenswear, Dazed
Givenchy SS15Photography Lea Colombo

Givenchy SS15 + live stream

Dressing for pleasure – Riccardo Tisci dabbles in debauchery in a full-throttle excursion in sex appeal

Initial reaction:

Exactly ten years ago, when Riccardo Tisci took the reigns at Givenchy he marked his ready-to-wear debut with a collection that was far removed from the dark romanticism he’s become known for. Instead, amongst a stark white set, he opened the show with long-term muse Mariacarla Boscono dressed in a sheer white chiffon shirt tucked into a hip skimming pencil skirt – a look that came to define the subtle sexuality of the new Givenchy woman at the time. In stark contrast, today’s collection (which marked his ten year reign) was anything but subtle – it was an unashamedly full-throttle excursion in sex appeal – let’s call it dressing for pleasure. It also served as a reminder of all that Tisci has achieved over during that time – and I’m not talking about clothes – but cultural shifts for fashion. Just think of his collaboration with Marina Abramović for her re-imagining of Maurice Ravel’s famously erotic composition Boléro or his pioneering ad campaigns featuring transgender supermodel Lea T. Tisci has always been able to see fashion as a tool to express bigger ideas, and in today’s case it was centered on female sexuality. 

Deep into debauchery:

High-octane and steeped in sex – Tisci played on traditional dress and folkloric influences in an unashamedly fetishistic way. Bavarian-style corsets were laced all the way down to the navel, whilst billowing white shirts were so sheer, every inch of flesh was exposed. At times, it verged on the aggressive – especially in the stiff leather waistcoats that were bound around the body with studded straps and the thigh-high leather boots. But Tisci’s dark romanticism was ever present and manifested itself in black and white chiffon dresses and delicate lace – used as a peep show to reveal the models' thighs. 

Tisci on sex appeal:

“I think designers aren’t instigating women to be more sexy, so I was pushing that,” he explained backstage. “I was looking back to the past, it’s been ten years now. Back then it was all about sexuality. I’m surrounded by so many women and I think what they are missing is a wardrobe that is more sensual – sexy.”