From cyber fairy tales in pastel silicone to eccentric generals in sequins and silk, we select our favourites from this graduate season's first show
The University of Westminster’s final year Fashion Design BA students kick started the Graduate Fashion season last night. Opening with Alexander Muto’s ecclesiastical white lace gowns and sportswear, and moving through sweeping silicon coated skirts, 50s pop art branding and fairytale foil applique, the 16-student strong show proved to be an arresting glimpse into the industry’s future designers and creatives. We selected our stand out six below.
Catholic purity collides with the urban uniform as crisp white pilgrim lace chokes the neck and forms inserts and panels in black tracksuit-inspired outerwear.
The first look of the show, Muto’s flowing white gown of lace and white stripes (think the satin/matt stripes of your polyester PE kit) arrived from the yellow halo of backstage, Muto-branded boot kit bag in hand.
Plastic-coated hessian-like material, aged leathers orange from tan and unexpected bustles of pale pink held together with hardware form apocalyptic work wear.
An organza skirt came appliqued with a haphazard patchwork of white jagged ceramics that chinked and clattered down the runway.
Maybe it was the shock of red hair, or the theatrics of glitter but Fickling’s shimmering, bronze tailoring brought David Bowie to mind.
Metallic gold, bronze, pink and red fabrics formed intricate brocades and 3D floral quilting patterns that swirled down sleeves. Sparkling Lurex peeked from socks and cuffs, while a red, glittered archer’s hat topped the look like a cherry.
A cyber fairytale of sculptural, silicon-coated pastel foam, shaped into soft, outsized pleats held in place with bolts.
To a twinkling soundtrack of futuristic bleeps, tales of otherworldly princesses playing dress up in giant clothing were conjured.
Fifties Americana realized in a distinctly seventies silhouette, as dark denim, high-waisted turn ups came paired with cropped jackets and sweaters, pointed collars and plaid.
Amid the ‘Hard Luck’ slogans and graphic face motifs came self-branded logo pastiche. ‘Alex Bottenberg’ beer adorned a red sweater, while a big, varsity-font ‘A’ saw ‘Bad Kid’ scrawled across it in cursive applique.
ADAM MARC JAMES
A military march through a Moroccan souk: camouflage paired with sumptuous tile-print pyjama trousers, hookah lounge pillows carried as bags, and tropic soldier helmets swinging with leather tassels.
Stand out look:
The final bulging puffa jacket coat, covered completely in moss green and golden sequins. Paired with silken shorts and a head piece of burnt orange feathers, it evoked the image of an eccentric general caught up in the magic of Arabian nights.