Kenzo AW14

Initial reaction:

Stimulating forgotten emotions: love, revenge, jealousy and mystery. Kenzo’s alluring characters are complex but strong.

Lynched:

David Lynch worked with design duo Humberto Leon and Carol Lim on the maze like set, and the soundtrack. As models walked alongside a mirrored wall, their reflections became warped and unnerving, the way Lynch seeds nuggets of fear and intrigue into our minds when we watch his films. He explained his intentions on the press release:

“I wanted to try and get a different feel for a runway show, having mystery and emotion swimming together.”

The silhouette:

A perverse alien glamour of ballooned skirts worn over full tailored suits, and opera coats layered over languid trousers layered over a pullover, so the silhouette bulged and expanded over the body. Leather skirts were worn as tops and lapels on wool coats crossed over the chest, fixed to the torso seemingly without fastenings, trapping the body. Disconcerting cuts slashed across the waist of jackets, leaving the loose panel to fall awkwardly.

Hypnotised prints:

Rich plums, oranges and lime yellow were scattered across abstract prints – too abstract for a lucid description. So surreal they were difficult to concentrate on, and layered one on top of the other; stripes over warped florals over hypnotising zig zags.

Unexpected details:

Vampy, corseted shapes. White ankle tags over boots. Belts that disappeared under folds of fabric. Comically furry lemon yellow bags. Wire tendrils that grew all over a sweater worn by Hanne Gaby, like alien skin.

Models: Ola Rudnicka, Solomiya Zgoda (@solomiyazgoda), Marique Schimmel (@mariqueschimmel), Irina Kravchenko (@iriska_kravchenko), Raschelle Osbourne (@Who_Osbourne), Amanda Wellsh (@amandawellsh), Magdalena Jasek (@magdalena_jasek), Chiharu Okunugi (@chiharuuu0515), Kremi Otashliyska, Nika Cole, Hanne Gaby Odiele (@hannegabysays), Nastya Sten (@Kusakina_Nastya), Ondria Hardin (@IamOndriaHardin), Juliana Schurig (@Juliana_Schurig), Marique Schimmel (@mariqueschimmel), Sung Hee (@kimssung2)