Chalayan AW14

Initial reaction:

After last season’s bright, ticker-tape dresses, this season felt like a refined study into peel-and-reveal cuts and layers. One considered cut became the focus of an entire look, like the single unzipped panel falling open on the front of the first dress.

Colour impressions:

Dark, autumnal leathers in forest green and stormy grey. Even scarlet, cerise and rich burgundies felt restrained and quiet, not bold and loud.

Unexpected details:

A series of gauzy white dresses embellished with acrylic nails in neat scale like lines. They resembled the boards in a nail salon, when you choose which polish shade and design to get.

Closing looks:

Grey, shapeless transparent sheaths, slashed over the chest to reveal the structured red and black gowns beneath.

Surface area:

A subtle and abstract hatching pattern emerged in grey dresses and thigh split skirts, and gauzy grid print layers.

Models: Sanne Vloet, Nastya Sten (@Kusakina_Nastya), Mijo Mihaljcic (@mijomihaljcic), Holly Rose Emery (@hollyroseemery), Tanya Dziahileva (@TanyaDziahileva), Franzi Mueller (@FranziMueller_), Alma Durand (@durandalma), Dani Witt (@daniwitt), Esther Heesch (@estherheesch), Samantha Gradoville (@samgradoville), Harleth Kuusik (@harlethkuusik), Leila Nda, Iris Van Berne (@irisvberne), Tian Yi, Pamela Bernier (@pamelabernier).