Yang Li AW14

Initial reaction:

A collection for dreamers. 

Teenage recollections:

A throwback to nostalgic teenage years spent sewing patches on our jackets. Discreet ‘dreamer’ patches adorned glossy ponyskin jackets, before appearing emblazoned across the chest of a black fur t-shirt in white fur letters.

Nineties sensibilities:

After an influx of seventies colour and concepts this season, Yang Li’s nineties touches felt comforting and familiar: glossy plum ponyskin baggy trousers with grungy slits at the knees, worn with chunky black patent Chelsea boots, and raw hems that dragged across the floor in full, enveloping skirts.

Silhouette:

An exercise in volume and deconstruction – something that's been integral to Li's vision from the beginning – gave a feeling of real elegance this season. The opening looks saw trench and camel coats spliced with pleats, while thick two-tone wool coats were worn with hands stuffed into trouser pockets, so that the coat bunched and folded dramatically over the hips.

Soundtrack:

“Dream Baby Dream” by Bruce Springsteen

Come on, we gotta keep the light burning
Come on and dream baby dream