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Nasir Mazhar AW14

Cholas, cyber goths and TLC merge in athletic silhouettes to form Mazhar's girl grime gang

Initial reaction:

Nineties TLC called. They want everything. (That’s a compliment, obvs.) Loud, polished streetwear silhouettes were sent out to a Wiley-heavy grime soundtrack in Mazhar’s first women’s runway show – a natural extension of his urban warrior AW14 menswear. Baggy metallic trousers were cut off mid-thigh and worn with mini skirts and midriff-baring zip hoodies, with the designer’s logo emblazoned across elastic waistbands, signature style.

Up close:

If you’re looking for a singular theme or an obvious, easy-to-digest concept, you won’t get it with Mazhar. This season, he seemed to be riffing on a cacophony of references, from cyber goth to nineties cholas (present in the oversize white shirts and articulated curls) and the athletic sensuality of basketball silhouettes. A robotic, mechanical sensibility also ran through the collection in prints and machinery-like collage patches.  

Beauty:

Gelled chola curls, brown lip liner with glossy lipstick in a shade lighter (bow low), serious sharpie’d eyeliner flicks verging on vertical triangles and long square nails by Wah Nails. Mega.

Masked crusaders:

The unsettling gasmask-like facegear from Mazhar’s menswear show was echoed in glittery face contraptions that looked part Shredder from Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles and part Bane from Batman, underscoring the collection’s robotic overtones. 

How they wore it:

Like a tribe, with badges signifying their allegiance to the Nasir Mazhar clan, and with massive, stomping New Rock boots, amped-up baseball caps, backpacks and oversize furry gorilla mittens.