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Saint Laurent AW14

To a Raymond Pettibon manifesto, obscure bands from Camden to California walk a show dripping in sparkles

Initial reaction: 

This season Slimane took over Les Invalides – a 17th century Baroque hospital and burial ground for French war heroes – filling it with LED lights, a collection that shimmered and sparkled; and set Paris blazing.

The cult of Slimane: 

Show etiquette went out the window this season as Slimane’s fans sat crossed legged on the floor in front of the audience. This felt more like a concert rather than a fashion show and everyone wanted in.

Art collaboration: 

This season New York artist Raymond Pettibon – best known for creating the iconic artwork for Sonic Youth’s ‘Goo’ album and for Black Flag’s four bar logo – worked with Slimane on his manifesto for the season. Always in the form of a leather bound invitation book, Pettibon filled it with his black and white comic book sketches, often set against quotes from Henry James, John Ruskin, James Joyce. The best page? A screaming woman next to the words: ‘You chose the wrong girl to masturbate to!’ 

The boys: 

Like seasons before, the show was filled with a mix of models, musicians and street cast boys. Including members of the bands: Dr Skinnybones, Jungle Doctors, White Room, Rexx, Solid Brown, Western Hands, Blurry Boys, Kin, Astral Pattern and The Din. Classic Le Smoking jackets were dripping in pink sparkles and covered in chains, whilst iconic white shirts were re-imagined in ruffles.

California dreaming: 

Young LA band Froth were invited to produce the soundrack – a hazy series of tracks influenced by the dreamy sounds of the 60s. They might only have a thousand or so fans on Facebook, but that’s sure to change overnight.