3.1 Phillip Lim AW14

Initial reaction:

The spirit of the west: horse prints, cowboy scarves and lots of denim. The raw wood frames built inside the space gave it a barn feel.

Hey cowboy:

Jackets were boxy in silhouette like western bleached denim and had black contrast collars, while a full denim look featured a distressed and bleached out cape with drawstring waist. An American west landscape was reflected in the burnt oranges, blues and browns of boiled wool coats, with horse head prints a literal nod to the theme. A double denim shirt and jeans, with black belt and burgundy mottled jacket – and the neck scarves worn with other looks ­– could have come straight off the back of John Wayne.

Stand out looks:

A bomber jacket and denim shirt were embroidered with a monochrome floral motif (like that you find on cowboy boots), while leather trousers came laid back and luxe in a super supple slouch finish. A burnt orange shearling fur over a black mac jacket seemed to mimic animal furs worn during cold desert nights.

Print:

Marble prints cut into graphic triangular shapes on white shirts were the colour of hot desert sand. Oversized plaid in orange and blue adorned a voluminous waistcoat tabard worn with leather, and a blown up check cut through black and white trousers.

How they wore it:

With slouchy cable knits, and white glossy winklepickers. Handbags were classic and structured, with straps tucked in and held under the arm – some had tufts of white fur trimming the seams.