Saint Laurent SS14

Initial reaction:

Hard and fast-paced glamour.

Viral moment: 

The opening of the show – a hypnotic neon light installation that moved and transformed into graphic shapes above the runway. Somewhat reminiscent of a Dan Flavin installation, but moving in triple the time.

Soundtrack:

Thumping fast-pasted beats written and performed by Liars, remixed by Angus Andrew in LA earlier this month.

Model behaviour:

Edie Campbell opened the show in a metallic mini-dress, later joined by Sam Rollinson, Maria Loks and Julia Nobis – with the addition of a few street cast girls, whom we can almost presume are also musicians.

Progression:

Last season’s cali-grunge silhouettes had been replaced with sharp tailoring, a skill that had become to intrinsic to Slimane approach. 

Stand out look:

Sam Rollinson in a black evening dress, complete with a large sculptural tulle appliqué casually hanging off one shoulder.

Invitation:

Every season, Slimane fills a black book with the work of artists. This season it contained the monochrome images of artist Guy De Cointet.

References:

The collection paid homage to the house’s archive, one look referencing the 1971 ‘Vichy Chic’ collection of Yves Saint Laurent – oh, and much like menswear this felt like a continuation of Slimane’s love affair with the ever androgynous icon Bowie.

How it was worn:

The classic Le Smoking was worn with a large metallic choker and Slimane’s signature skinny silhouettes.

Models: Edie Campbell (@ebcampbell), Lida Fox, Natalie Westling, Helena Severin (@helenaseverin), Julia Nobis, Nastya Sten (@Kusakina_Nastya), Doug, Maria Loks, Grace Hartzel (@graciehartzel), Binx Walton (@waltonleona), Hanne Gaby (@hannegabysays), Laura O’Grady (@lauraogrady94), Juliette Fazekas (@juliettefazekas), Sam Rollinson (@samrollinson), Linn Arvidsson (@linnarvidson), Meghan Collison (@meghancollison), Anmari Botha, Sarah Engelland (@sarahengelland), Rachel MacKnight (@livelyrachel), Lily McMenamy, Zlata Mangafic (@zlatamangafic)