Neil Barrett SS14

Initial reaction:

Elegant precision and modernism.

Unexpected details:

A subtle play with proportions: cycling shorts underneath dresses and skirts, adding a sleek tomboy-ish element.

References:

Ray and Charles Eames' furniture designs, the seam detail and architectural feel reflected in Barrett's structured yet soft shapes with rigid textures adding depth to a look of all one shade.

Prints:

The opening feather print both delicate and graphic, seemed to float over caps, bomber jackets and shift dresses.

Colour impressions:

The full collection shown as a tonal gradation working from black fading starkly through grey to white, and ending with two scarlet punches. 

Silhouette:

Ergonomic and uniform; the gentle, seam free curve of a leather jacket and the subtle architectural cut of fit-and-flare shifts.

Fabrication:

Gentle undulating lines are created by heat-bonding fabrics, giving weight-free volume to the silhouette. Leather and sheer panels add a visual texture.

Hair:

Cleanly slicked down with a sharp, graphic parting.

Accessories:

Wooden bases to clutch and tote bags create an Eames’ inspired sculptural form, while wooden shoe heels are attached with visible metal bolts.

Progression:

The clinical silhouette and tonal print was a continuation of Neil Barrett menswear SS14, when Ray and Charles Eames were again quoted as references.