The spirit of youth always reverberates through a Saint Laurent show. It manifested itself in the sounds, the atmosphere and, of course, the clothes. Most youthful of all, though, is the casting. Hedi Slimane created his own young tribe – full of new faces and musicians. Unsurprising, of course, given Hedi's captivation with the idea of adolescence – by the feeling, attitude and state of becoming.
At the core of Hedi’s vision is a new type of beauty – and this season, a new type of glamour. Yesterday’s show was all about the glamour.
It began with the atmosphere and the lights - a series of large LED screens that began pulsating, reflecting and moving to eventually frame the runway. It was like being at a great stage performance or looking up at the floodlights at an American football game. Then came the sounds. A soundtrack by Sam Flax recorded in Berkley California, which itself throbbed throughout the collection.
The collection referenced the glamour of the 1970s and infused it with Hedi’s own code of androgyny. There were gold sequin jackets worn with tight zebra print trousers and a red bandana wrapped around the models neck. Then came patent black trousers, Hawaiian print shirts worn over leather jackets and even a chequered black and white biker worn by a male model with red lipstick. Hedi was gender blurring and perhaps this season he was paying homage to Bowie – particularly his approach to sexual identity. As each look came out I couldn’t help but think back to one of Bowie’s lyrics - "Nothing stands in your way when you’re a boy…” This season Hedi’s boys were powerful and seductive – nothing stood in their way.