It may have already been a balmy 20 or so degrees in Milan, but Trussardi was intent on drawing us towards much warmer climates – New Mexico and Arizona to be precise. Desert sensibility gave way to loose-fitting linen fabrics in a spectrum of stone colours, from paler, sandy shades to inky blues and burnt reds. Even the label’s famous staple of leather was lightweight; the way the creases fell when pulled up an arm was more akin to velvet or silk.
As always, the Trussardi man is largely about accessories; canvas shoulder bags with leather details were effortlessly slung over one side, backpacks were made of buffalo, ostrich and nappa python, while leather holdalls – perfect for jetting off in – accompanied the smarter looks. This is Gaia Trussardi’s debut men’s show as creative director – what can this collection tell us about the future of the luxury Italian house? It may not have been as overtly directional as those before it, but the emblem was clear: survival