Annika Berger, 33, Swedish, Menswear and Unisex (designs label Skyward)

Where did you study and why did you decide to study there?
I never studied fashion. At first I studied BSc engineering and industrial design. Then I worked for several years as an mechenical engineer/industrial designer and with innovation of new products. Later  I studied Graphic Design at HDK, Scool of design and Crafts in Gothenburg.  I graduated 2006. I wanted to work creative, and I always do what I feel fascinated of for the moment.

Which city do work in and for what reason?
Gothenburg, at the westcoast in Sweden.  I love the silence and the sea, and the possibility to have a big studio place. And I love the contrast when I visit my friends in bigger cities.

What films/books/tv-programs/moments and stories inspire your design now?
I am constantly searching for what make me think “I like it! What is it?” Something I couldn’t quite recognise but still there are references that appeal to me. Could be anything, something I see pass by, a person I meet. From that, I start fantasising about it in a different context.
I am very attracted to opposites, and putting them together. Urban with nature for example.
The final result has often a lot to do with accident as well.   My way of working vary between very concentrated, slow  and careful, to extremely spontanous and fast working out sudden ideas. I like to build fantasies around fashion, have a strong idea, build a special world around it.
To me, fashion is all about imagination. And dreams are really the only things that can bring you forward and make a difference.

In your own words describe your last collection.
The idea of  my S/S 09 collection actually grew from backwards…
From my studio I have a great view over the big oil harbour in Gothenburg. At night, it is an amazing sight. It is like another world, the lights, the smoke, the distant  unnatural sounds. And as well the unavoidable facts and thoughts; we are soon running out of oil.  So I build up an imaginary world in my mind about this area, and fantasized about doing the shoot there, and I made the clothes so that they would fit in in the surroundings. 

Describe the moment you realised you wanted to be a fashion designer?
That was actually about a year after I released my first collection. I have  always been very fascinated of the fact, that what you wear can make you feel different ways of mind, or that you actually are somewhere else. I want reactions, I want people to feel something - that is the final result.
Everyone is involved in fashion. Fashion questions conventions, and I don’t think there is any other art form that shows the present with the same directness. Then I come to the conclusion I thought I wanted to do fashion after all.

Who is your all time fashion idol?
I don’t have an idol but Viktor and Rolf's early projects will always be breathtaking…and also Bernhard Willhelm.

In a sentence how would you describe your work/style?
My friend said about wearing Skyward: “It is about being all dressed in monocrome, but still feeling like bursting with colours.” I think he got it there.

From the recent S/S 09 shows, which shows were your favourite collections, and why?
I'm in love with Bless for the extraordinary conceptual thinking, the quality, the fabrics, the small projects and product  ideas they have. Gareth Pugh as always - great.  

Which new designers do you respect and why?
Im looking for those who do interesting menswear. James Long A/W 08 was amazing. Extraordinary but still very male. Antwerp students! They do interesting things. Romain Kremer.

If you could go back in time and experience any fashion moment, what would it be?
Thinking of all great fashion moments I must admit that I would still most die for once again experience the first time as a kid when I dressed up for masquerade and got totally stunned of the feeling of being someone else.

If you could get any model/ anyone to wear your clothes, who would it be-who is your muse and why?
Oh. I cannot think of one person when I design, I making up a person that will fit into the idea.

If you were to shoot your campaign and you could get your dream team of photographer, stylist, and model and do anything you wanted, who and what would it be?
I always wanted to do something with Mi-Zo, a Japanese photographer team. Their work is amazing. I met them 3 years ago in Tokyo, without realizing it was them until afterwards, then they e-mailed me and recommended Diptrics that also became my agent. And if Nicola Formichetti would do the styling of Skyward I wouldn’t say no.
I cannot think of a dream team but I´d love to do something with them.

Where do you see yourself/your label for A/W 09?
Big in Japan.

Where do you see yourself/ your label for A/W 29?
I think Skyward will continue the exploring things, by itself and also togtheter with other creatives, in different areas. I want Skyward to be recognised, whatever design area it is visual in.

Tell us any anecdotes about the making of your last collection.
During the S/S 09 shoot on top of one of the huge oil cisterns it started raining. Everyone was so tired, it was getting dark, I was afraid of hights and it was slippery. We just wanted that last amazing pic. The photographer finally stuck an open umbrelly under the jacket to make it  not loosing its shape from the strong wind. I later used that construction idea.

If you weren’t a fashion designer what would you be?
An illustrator that lives with horses.