Behind the Scenes: Louise Goldin

Louise Goldin is, and always has been, one of my favorite London Designers. Her shows never fail to impress me and leave me wanting more. This season I covered her show for Dazed Digital so was able to be part of the backstage buzz as well as see the collection on the catwalk. What I find so fascinating about Louise Goldin is the fact that not only does she create ambitious, powerful silhouettes, which I am a huge fan of but that she also makes all her own fabrics. Therefore the chance to meet Louise Goldin at her new studio to discuss her collection, see her sketches and inspirations was a treat indeed.

Dazed Digital: How do you begin working on your collection, where do you go for inspiration?
Louise Goldin: I start by being really open-minded. I get my inspiration from many things, visiting galleries, libraries, going on trips and holidays; I really love science and for this collection I visited the Medical Library.

DD: So science was your inspiration for your S/S 09 collection?
LG: Yes, I found these six great books and became fascinated in remote sensing, looking at earth from above, satellites, seeing the patterns that are naturally formed, in particular contour lines and pixilation. (see Image Gallery to the right)

DD: Once you have your subject, where do you go from there?
LG: I gather all my research and then have to concentrate on the fabrics, as I make all my own fabric I have to choose the yarns early, as they will take 4 weeks to arrive. Once these are ordered I will start sketching and concentrating on my illustrations. I will design loads more than I need and then edit. I then begin making my toiles. Once I have my whole collection made up in toiles I go to Italy to my factory where I begin making the fabrics and final looks. My time in the factory is limited so I can’t afford any mistakes, or make extra looks, I have to be really organised.

DD: How do you decide on your colour palette?
LG: I have always worked with bright, strong colours and this collection would have worked well in colour too, but I feel I have already done that. So this time I am using neutral tones, inspired and derived from the pixilation and contour lines of my research.

DD: What do you enjoy most about your job?
LG: I really love drawing and making my fabrics

DD: What is your least favourite part of your job?
LG: I really don’t like making toiles

DD: How important is it to you to work with a stylist on your collection?
LG: It is really important. I work with Jay Massacret, Fashion Editor at V + V MAN, I get so involved in the whole process of my collection that it is great to have a fresh pair of eyes to suggest ideas, a better length of sleeve for example a different armhole etc… and then the show of course!

DD: Which season do you prefer designing for?
LG: I prefer A/W usually, as I find S/S knitwear quite complicated, and the yarns have to be a lot different. Sometimes there are more possibilities with A/W, layers, visuals. I would not say one is easier than the other just different.

DD: Which collection has been your favourite?
LG: My favourite is  A/W 08.

DD: What can we expect to see from Louise Goldin for the next collection A/W 09?
LG: I am feeling less construction, keeping elements but making looks slouchier. I like the idea of traditional knits, simple silhouettes, coats, more textures and a lot of black!!