EXCLUSIVE: Diesel Black Gold Menswear S/S13

The collection was inspired by the steampunk world of the 80s, early 90s combined with masculine tailoring and mechanical references. High-waisted silhouettes and military colours featured heavily, khaki, mustard, olive gave the collection an almost dandy feel; as well as navy on black and tones of white worn together. These colours sat alongside innovative textiles, one of the highlights of which was intricate flowers embroidered onto tailored pieces and suede bomber jackets. Metallic lace eyewear and fragile hanging leaves oxidized jewellery sat against the strong silhouettes in collaboration with Ugo Cacciatori.

We arrived at the location at 8am after working all night in the hot, hot heat at the Diesel headquarters. The show location was a vast old industrial space, with the original machinery and pipes still in place. There was just about time for a quick rehearsal and the show began just after. The soundtrack was played by pianist Floriano Bocchino and Nicola Tripaldi and everything went to plan – there were no scary moments!

My favourite look was 37, worn by Miles. The mélange of tonal tailoring and embroidered geometric flowers really summed up the collection.

Text Shawana Grosvenor
Casting polaroids Roberto Lorenzi