Dazed's Senior Fashion Editor dissects the last day of Fashion Week
Robbie Spencer is Senior Fashion Editor at Dazed & Confused. This season, he kicked off the New York shows by styling Richard Chai before putting together the menswear at McQ's brilliant London show. Spencer works on editorial, catwalks and campaigns internationally.
Dazed Digital: How was Louis Vuitton?
Robbie Spencer: Louis Vuitton was its usual epic spectacle, always one of the most exciting shows of Paris Fashion Week saving one of the best until last. This time it went one step further than last season's full size carousal by having an actual locomotive steam train pulling up into the show venue. It was filled with models, and one by one each model came off the train, doing a circuit of the catwalk/platform with their porter in tow carrying Vuitton luggage. It was a very clever way to highlight the origins of the brand and the focus on the luggage and travel was perfect timing in light of the 'Louis Vuitton Marc Jacobs' exhibition at Les Arts Décoratifs.
The collection was print heavy with added embellishment on top. There was a buttoned up and layered feel with overgolcoats on top of full skirts, while dresses were worn over cropped trousers. To elongate the silhouette each model was adorned and partially disguised with a crushed Stephen Jones hat. The shapes all had a very historical late Victorian, early Edwardian feel, and seemed to look back to the Golden Age of traveling by train. It was one of the most dramatic shows of Paris Fashion Week.
DD: What about Miu Miu?
Robbie Spencer: Everything about this show I loved; the collection, the casting, the hair, the make up and music. It was such a great finale to fashion week, and really summed up one of the most apparent trends of the season - women in suiting. For Miu Miu it was about the female dandy, psychedelic suits with big lapels worn with contrasting print shirts and ties. It looked like she had been trawling through the archives of iconic 1960's Kings Rd boutique Granny Takes a Trip, created by the Saville Row tailor John Pearse, and the Nutters of Saville Row created by the late British tailor Tommy Nutter.
I loved the pleated ties and clumpy platform shoes, full merlot suede safari suits, and the finale mirrored dresses. It was all tied together by the psychedelic hair and eye make up, which consisted of turquoise swirls and rhinestone curves following the brow courtesy of Pat McGrath. As well as the curly sideburns created by Guido. The music was really exciting and summed up the collection, fusing the 90's doing 60's feel with early 'Bjork Venus is a boy' and 'Violently happy' followed by Mannequin Take Me to the Club. A song that most people will remember from being on the Party Monster soundtrack, a film based on a true story of Michael Alig (played by Macaulay Culkin) and his friends during the New York club scene in the early 90's. This fusion of two eras became solidified in the clever mix of casting made up of character girls, as well as established models no longer doing the show round anymore such as Amber Valetta Jacquetta wheeler, Coco Rocha and opening with Anne V. Not forgetting brand new faces Kati Nescher, Vanessa Axente, Elza Luijendijk and Marte Mei van Haaster.
DD: Is there anything else you'd like to mention?
Robbie Spencer: After Miu Miu we did one last appointment, an Alexander McQueen re-see. It was incredible to see the pieces close up. I am always amazed by the craftsmanship that goes into a McQueen collection. On the way to the Eurostar to head back to London we bumped in to Mark Hampton who is on Guido's hair team. He was saying how he has just finished doing the hair on an incredible 54 shows with Guido! He created Some of the most inspiring hair looks from each fashion week included Calvin Klein who transformed Patricia Van Der Vilet with a hair cut of the season. Her newly dyed black blunt fringed bob looks so amazing on her she is sure to have a great editorial season. Other highlights included McQ’s tubular bouffants, Versace’s blunt fringes, Prada’s two tone long manes, Jean Paul Gaultier's multi spray center partings and Miu Miu's curly sideburns. After a whirlwind of shows it is now finally time to get back into the office and plan the season ahead. I can’t wait to start shooting new season!