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Adam Kimmel Menswear A/W12

The American designer reinterprets classic wardrobe pieces with imaginative influences from Area 51 and the US Air Force

The big question, especially in the last two seasons since he started showing on the catwalk rather than as a presentation, is this: Is Adam Kimmel too boring for the runway? Not the man himself of course, but the clothes. Well, there is certainly an argument for it. And, even though Kimmel wouldn't agree with the thesis, he would probably acknowledge that his collections aren't full of outrageous show pieces but rather his version of everyday clothes and classic American casual wear. And I suppose that's the answer right there. His clothes aren't boring, they are what you would want to wear any day of the week at any time. Not many other designers can do that.

The point of Adam Kimmel has always been the reinterpretation of classic wardrobe pieces. It's very American, it's very New York, and for anyone not living in New York and/or the US, that can be exotic enough. On top of that, Kimmel has always gone for imaginative themes, be it last season's dark surfers or previous Snoop Dogg and cowboys-inspired shows, and that in itself is a bold statement today. For Autumn Winter 2012, Kimmel mind-travelled to Nevada's Area 51, the infamous home of stranded aliens, to indulge in his passion for mysteries, secrets, extraterrestrial life forms and the activities of the US Air Force and the Central Intelligence Agency.

Here we were treated to a fairly formal and elegant collection, grey suits and shirts of the more casual type dominated the first segment. Donkey jackets were a welcome addition and a couple of bright button down shirts - orange and check - raised our pulses. But it was the second half, dedicated to blue and black colour combinations and beautiful midnight blue evening suits that stayed with everyone. That and the crashed spacecraft that pierced the middle of the catwalk, of course...

Dazed Digital: What was it that attracted you to Area 51?
Adam Kimmel:
Area 51 is all about the CIA, the US Air Force, aliens, secret missions - what's not to like? That's also where they developed planes like the Blackbird SR71...

DD: How did you come up with that idea?
Adam Kimmel:
It's something I've long been fascinated with... I just felt it was in the air this season! 

DD: The collection felt kinda smarter and formal this time around...
Adam Kimmel:
I'm always excited to increase the quality of the tailoring and my formal wear. I'd love to be able to produce the collection in Italy, I wanted it took real but when you go up the pieces and feel them, they are clearly luxurious products.

DD: You sailed a tight ship colour wise.... grey, blue and black!
Adam Kimmel:
My favourite colours happen to be seen all over my research, I'm always happy to step up and use my favourite blue, black and greys!

DD: Is there a particular piece that stands out?
Adam Kimmel:
For me, I could never find a reason to do a flight jacket, but now with the Area 51 idea I was finally able to make my favourite flight jacket...