The Antwerp designer tells Dazed about his new capsule collection and collaboration with the Swedish brand
The fashion designer, or rather tailor Bruno Pieters is known for his absolute attention to detail. He managed as the first Belgian Antwerp graduate to present his couture collection during Paris Fashion Week in 2001, and has since showcased beautifully tailored Ready-to-wear collections. He also worked as the creative director for Hugo by Hugo Boss and won several awards such as the Andam Yves Saint Laurent Award for best designer.
But now he has ventured into a design collaboration with Swedish Weekday, a brand that manages to produce clean cut Scandinavian design at low prices while collaborating with great designers. He came by Copenhagen with his business partner to showcase his new collection at the restaurant Public House, while hosting a vegetarian dinner just as perfectly conjured as his creations. He brought along his new Swedish Weekday crew, who will hopefully open up many new stores across Europe as soon as possible please.
Dazed Digital: You started working as an assistant for Maison Martin Margiela, and later Christian Lacroix Couture. They must be extreme opposites to work for. Do you think this has influenced your design, to have a bit of both?
Bruno Pieters: I'm sure it has. Sometimes i believe all the experiences I've had have influenced me. Everything and everyone in my life can inspire me. My work is a reflection of some of those moments.
DD: Tell me, how did the collaboration with Weekday come about?
Bruno Pieters: Weekday invited me to design a capsule collection for them a little bit over a year ago now. I didn't know the brand at first ,but i looked it up and immediately loved it because it was an opportunity for me to work on a more democratic product. It was a fun experience. Also because i worked with a designer friend of mine Glenn Martens ,who graduated from the Royal Academy of Antwerp less than 3 years ago.
DD: Have you completely ceased your own label or are you still keeping it alive?
Bruno Pieters: Currently I'm working on another project which will be out in 2012. That's all i can say for now. The two year break i took was necessary for me personally, it had nothing to do with my business or the brands i was working for. I needed some time off to rediscover and love life again.
DD: It must be hard to launch a collection during couture week in Paris, which you managed in 2001, why did you not want to launch a RTW collection?
Bruno Pieters: Lauching a collection during couture week was very hard indeed, but launching ready to wear a few seasons later was even more difficult. Besides the fact that, even back then, the interest from press and buyers in new talent was extremely low, after 9/11 it was almost non-existent. I think my luck only changed after winning the Swiss Textile and Andam-Yves Saint Laurent Awards in 2006 and 2007.
DD: Why do you give so much attention to the cut?
Bruno Pieters: It's what I love to do. Creating something new out of nothing. Innovation to me is not only about styling or creating an atmosphere, it's also about experimenting with cut, shape and proportion. Although I must admit my last collections were a little extreme and probably only looked good on a size 0.
DD: I have been to quite a few of your shows in Paris, and they have always left me with a very atmospheric feeling, through the music, the sharp garments and the casting. Tell me about your universe.
Bruno Pieters: My universe is the same as yours, my inspirations and the experiences I have are just different. And these evolve every day. I never had a plan for a 'Bruno Pieters ' look or world, it's something that happened over time. In a way it's funny to see what people make of it. All I do is work on intuition .
What is your plan for the future?
Bruno Pieters: Change is the only constant and that is the only plan I have.