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Yohji Yamamoto Menswear S/S12

After his show in Paris, we speak to the man behind the new collection of composed contrasts in thick linens, jersey shirts and wide pants

You might wonder what Bollywood and Yohji Yamamoto have in common – indeed, the former’s music kicked off and ended the latter’s catwalk. A taste for humour, drama and men in wide pants perhaps? The show began by offering classic contrasts – ultra baggy trousers with loose white jersey shirts, mimicking and simultaneously appropriating a Western suit; this was soon followed by mismatched patterns, stripy pants worn with jackets composed of tiny heart patterns, a subtle game of patchwork, and kilt-like trousers – in fabrics ranging from to sporty jersey to raw cotton and thick linen.

The accessories included early 20th century policeman hats worn backwards like baseball caps, and a recurring use of knotted cotton belt. But the most notable aspect of the show was perhaps its casting: tall, short, chubby, young, not so young – and much, much facial hair. Dazed Digital chatted to Yohji Yamamoto after the show about Asia and the modern man.

Dazed Digital: Your show uses a lot of Bollywood music, is that an influence in your collection?
Yohji Yamamoto: Well, it is actually Indonesian music. I wanted to give a folkIoric feeling. Also, I was strongly influenced by Asian cultures, ranging from the South East, the East, and Japan.

DD: How does this translate onto clothes?
Yohji Yamamoto: I just mixed so many cultures in this collection so you can say it’s a new folkloric taste.

DD: And who is the Yohji man today?
Yohji Yamamoto: He is someone who lives in the city, and on the street; sometimes he creates a movie, and sometimes he writes. He is a free man.