As the brand celebrates its 20th anniversary, founder Geza Schön reflects on how a single synthetic note spiralled into a successful perfume empire
The fragrance world can be overwhelming – endless notes, layers and combinations line the shelves. Two decades ago, perfumer Geza Schön decided to strip all that back. When he first encountered Iso E Super, a single synthetic molecule with a velvety, woody allure, he realised it could stand entirely on its own. “It was time to give people a Bauhaus option – something stripped back – instead of only playing within the traditional paradigm of perfumery,” he explains. “People were ready for something radical.” That discovery soon became the iconic Molecule 01 – and the beginning of a 20-year run for Escentric Molecules.
Since first encountering Iso E Super during his studies in a German chemistry lab, Schön has continued to build fragrances around the molecule. While many brands were chasing ever-louder, more complex compositions, Escentric Molecules went in the opposite direction. What set the brand apart was a focus on what was missing in perfumery: “It’s about what you don’t smell – the space a fragrance leaves for warmth and human skin,” he tells us.
This philosophy still guides the brand today. Beyond the staple Molecule 01, the M+ series pairs Iso E Super with what Schön calls a “hedonistic ally” – including orange, lime, patchouli, iris, and mandarin. With each pairing selected through a careful, intuitive process as the Escentric Molecules world continues to expand.
Below we speak to the founder as he reflects on 20 years of the brand and the molecule that started it all.
How did you first came across Iso E Super?
Geza Schön: I first smelled Iso E Super in August 1990, at the beginning of my studies at Haarmann & Reimer (now Symrise). I remember exactly where I stood in the room when I smelled it – even then, it was clear this was something mesmerising and unique. It completely stood out among all other ingredients. That vibrant, velvety woodiness felt overwhelmingly sophisticated.
I gave it to a friend to wear on a night out in our hometown. We’d been in a bar for maybe ten minutes before a woman came over and asked, ‘Who smells so nice here?’ From that moment, it was clear what an alluring power this ingredient had — and the idea for Molecule 01 was born.
“Skin perfumes” have become popular in recent years, but what was the reaction 20 years ago when you told people about Molecule 01?
Geza Schön: I remember asking my former perfumery teacher, Mr Egon Oelkers, if he could imagine wearing a single aroma-chemical, and he said, “Absolutely not.” Within the industry, reactions ranged from “Well done, man!” to “You’re cheating!” The latter still makes me smile today — as if the shape of things should be forever chiselled in stone.
Why do you think Escentric Molecules became such a success?
Geza Schön: Quite simply, both M01 and E01 smell fabulous – there was nothing like them around 20 years ago. Escentric 01 has this astonishingly warm, sophisticated allure. Many people have worn it for years; it becomes part of their personality, something they don’t want to live without.
I think we struck a nerve with our approach to perfumery. Later, Professor Dr Hanns Hatt at Ruhr University in Bochum discovered that Iso E Super stimulates one of our remaining pheromone receptors, unlike any other ingredient.
What have been some memorable moments from the last 20 years?
Geza Schön: I think we can proudly say we helped make chemicals sexy in the fragrance world like no one else. I’ve received emails from people who have met because of our fragrances and now have children together. That’s incredible.
Why do you think skin perfumes have become so popular? What does it say about the culture that people are embracing more personal, subtle scents?
Geza Schön: Most ‘skin’ fragrances sit within the woody, ambery, or musky families. For me, it’s about what you don’t smell – the space a fragrance leaves for warmth and human skin. A true skin scent shouldn’t overpower with sweetness, fruitiness, or florals.
That said, subtlety isn’t always the trend. Especially in Europe, there’s still a love for bold, opulent fragrances – oud, leather, and high-oil dosages are hugely popular right now!
What do you think of the current trend of unconventional or abstract scents — like ‘credit cards’, ‘balloons’, or ‘cocaine’?
Geza Schön: That’s just marketing. Credit cards don’t really smell of anything, but they sound intriguing. Cocaine doesn’t have a scent, and balloons — if anything — smell rubbery. Industrial notes can have their place in a fragrance if the message is strong, but often these “concept” scents are where arbitrariness meets romance, usually with poor results.
Where do you want to take Escentric Molecules next? Are there still dreams or goals you want to achieve?
Geza Schön: We’re focused on building a more stable and solid foundation than ever before. We’ve expanded our team tremendously over the past two years. As for dreams and goals – Paul and I don’t owe anyone a report about what we do, and that’s the best part! We’ve got some exciting launches coming up in the next six months, so we’ll just keep rolling.
What do you see happening in the next 20 years of perfumery?
Geza Schön: Sadly, I see more ingredients disappearing – and that’s not good. While new materials offer new perspectives, we already have a rich palette of raw materials to work with. I wish we could bring back some of the ones we’ve lost: real musk, costus root, mosses, animalics, and more. At the same time, we have to recognise the “in-your-face” era we’re in – boldness rules the moment.